Where to Stay and Go

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Ski season (cross-country and downhill) in Lapland lasts from October to May; most travelers should consider visiting in spring, when temperatures stay between 25 and 30 degrees and darkness has receded. In the summer months, when daylight lasts nearly 24 hours and the temperatures hover in the low sixties, Lapland is known for good hiking and salmon fishing. Finnair (www.finnair.com) operates regular flights to Rovaniemi, Ivalo, and Kemi from Helsinki.

WHERE TO STAY

Quality Hotel Santa Claus
Rovaniemi will never be known for its hotels, but the new Santa Claus is surprisingly decent.
DOUBLES FROM $114
29 KORKALONKATU; 358-16/321-321; www.hotelsantaclaus.fi

Hotel K5 Levi
The best option in Levi; it also has an excellent restaurant.
DOUBLES FROM $132
2 KATKANRANNANTIE; 358-16/639-1100; www.k5levi.fi

Hotel Riekonlinna
When visiting Inari, stay an hour away in Saariselka. This hotel is comfortable and has a good Lappish restaurant.
DOUBLES FROM $127
13 SAARISELANTIE; 358-16/679-4455; www.riekkoparvi.fi

WHAT TO DO

Arktikum
A wonderful museum of all things Arctic. Don't miss the listening room devoted to yoik.
4 POHJOISRANTA, ROVANIEMI; 358-16/322-3260; www.arktikum.fi

Siida
A nature center and museum of Sami culture. Staff can refer you to reindeer farms.
INARINTIE, INARI; 358-16/665-212; www.siida.fi

Levi
With 48 slopes and 26 lifts, it's the largest (and liveliest) downhill skiing area in Finland.
DAY PASSES FROM $32
358-16/641-246; www.levi.fi

Saariselka
A ski resort with 137 miles of cross-country skiing and a few downhill slopes.
DAY PASSES FROM $24
358-16/668-676; www.saariselka.fi

Santa Claus Village
Five miles north of Rovaniemi, a village dedicated to finding out who's naughty or nice.
21 ROVAKATU; 358-16/346-270; www.santaclaus.fi

The Snow Show (www.thesnowshow.net) will next be staged in 2006 in Turin, Italy.

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