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There are no direct flights from the United States, but FinnAir and Lufthansa have frequent service, with connections in Helsinki and Frankfurt, respectively. Americans traveling to Russia need a visa, which usually takes two weeks to process. Contact Russian National Group (877/221-7120; www.russia-travel.com), or book a tour with Exeter International (800/633-1008; www.exeterinternational.com) and they’ll take care of the paperwork for you.
Hotel Kempinski
A year-old property in a renovated 19th-century mansion, next door to the Hermitage museum. 22 Moika Embankment; 800/426-3135; www.kempinski.com; doubles from $545.
Hotel Astoria
A 1912 hotel with a caviar bar and great views of St. Isaac’s Cathedral. 39 Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya; 7-812/494-5757; www.roccofortehotels.com; doubles from $734.
Alexander House, Old City
A 16-room hotel in a quiet neighborhood, southwest of the center. 27 Kryukov Embankment; 7-812/575-3877; www.a-house.ru; doubles from $203.
Restoran
Classic, hearty Russian cuisine (don’t miss the elk dumplings) in an airy former printing house. 2 Tamozhenny Per; 7-812/327-8979; dinner for two $80.
Tiffany’s
This flashy restaurant and lounge is the new favorite hangout of the local jeunesse dorée. The sushi is good, the tuna tartare silky, and the staff straight out of a fashion spread. 12 Ul. Sadovaya; 7-812/ 925-4000; lunch for two $100.
1913
A demure corner restaurant that serves upscale Russian cuisine without too much to-do. Try the thin-sliced smoked sturgeon. 2/13 Ul. Dekabristov; 7-812/315-5148; dinner for two $60.
—Darrell Hartman
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