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T+L's Guide to Lisbon

On the hilltop Rua Santa Cruz do Castelo, near Lisbon’s São Jorge castle.

Photo: José Bernad

Food

At Bocca (dinner for two $130), chef Alexandre Silva polishes up rustic Portuguese classics; a fresh risotto layered with crayfish ceviche is a standout. The airy, two-story Ibo (lunch for two $85), on the water with views across the Tagus River, makes a nod to Mozambique—a former Portuguese colony—with piri-piri prawns and smoky Zambezi curries. On Rua da Moeda, choose Yasmin (dinner for two $83) for modern interiors (Saarinen chairs; graphic wallpaper) and whisper-thin carpaccios, or brand-new Sommer (dinner for two $77) for pan-Mediterranean fare, like linguine with local Serpa cheese and roasted walnuts. Stop at the elegant Verde Perto (lunch for two $33) en route from São Jorge castle; the savory crêpes are generously sized, the hummus is house-made, and the jewelry in the clever wall-mounted cases is for sale. It’s not just because John Malkovich is an owner that Bica do Sapato (dinner for two $98) remains Lisbon’s most talked-about restaurant. The multi-theme kitchen (which serves everything from sushi to Portuguese comfort food) is inventive, and the space is replete with vintage Midcentury furniture and low-lit corners.

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