Three insiders share their go-to places in the city.
Founder, Byredo Parfums
“A.W. Bauer & Co. is the only true bespoke tailor left in Scandinavia. It takes eight weeks to get a suit, but the shop also sells shirts, ties, and socks made in Scotland. At Artek, you’ll find timeless vintage furniture by Finnish master Alvar Aalto. Sneakersnstuff is a mecca for anyone who loves athletic shoes. Ingelsta Kalkon ($$) is great for lunch. It’s all turkey on the menu—get the grilled version with coleslaw.”
Curator, ABBA the Museum
“I love Restaurant J ($$$), in Nacka Strand, for its traditional kitchen and unique location along the harbor—it feels a bit like New Hampshire. Order the seafood platter with fresh lobster, shrimp, and oysters. In the summer, Djurgården is the place to hang out on weekends; locals go horseback riding and canoeing and for leisurely strolls along the water. ABBA fans won’t want to miss Ulla Winbladh ($$), an old tavern with a sunny terrace that the group often visited during their heyday.”
Chef at the Michelin-starred Matsalen
“Because I work in fine dining, I look for something deliciously simple and quick when I eat out. At Ramen Ki-mama ($$$), near my home in Birkastan, I can order a bowl of ramen noodles in broth and be out in 30 minutes. I often stop by Amida Kolgrill ($$), in Södermalm, for its excellent shish kebab. Not far away is the boutique Cajsa Warg. Warg was like a mother of Swedish household cooking in the 18th century. This store sells beautiful artisanal foods and cookware.”
Worth a Detour
Sandhamm: Fans of The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo will recognize this seaside hamlet, a two-hour ferry ride from central Stockholm, as the favored retreat of protagonist Mikael Blomkvist. Summer weekenders gravitate to the islet’s gravel lanes and unspoiled beaches.
Drottningholm: Sweden’s stately 17th-century royal residence, on the shore of Lake Mälaren a few miles west of the city, is surrounded by acres of parks and has gilded halls and Baroque gardens inspired by Versailles.
Uppsala: An hour north of the capital, this university town charms day-trippers with its hilltop castle, soaring red-brick cathedral, riverside cafés, and botanical gardens with 1,300 species cultivated by botanist Carl Linnaeus.