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T+L's Definitive Guide to Rome

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Photo: Danilo Scarpati

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Eat

Craving fresh mozzarella? Pizza napoletana? Or ravioli? Dig in.

From the team that brought Rome Primo comes Rosti, an über-cool pizzeria-osteria in the edgy Pigneto quarter. There’s an omaggio a Katz’s pastrami panino, six variations on the burger and prodigious grill options for carnivores, and a dozen choices each of the cracker-thin pizze rosse and pizze bianche. $$

A hybrid of L.A.-style organic eatery and caffè-trattoria, Ginger is all bright white tile and high marble-topped tables. Indulge in a signature garden salad—think mozzarella DOP from Campania and mixed organic seeds. $$

Settembrini Café is a local favorite for aperitivi, thanks to barman Pino Mondello’s creative drinks and wine supervisor Luca Boccoli’s wide-ranging choices by the glass. The interior, with its oak-plank floors and cozy tables, invites you to linger during the cold months, and the sidewalk setups are perfect for summer. $$$

Nestled in the Parione quarter, Bar del Fico is a model of success for that elusive balance of tourist-local commingling. The studied casualness of yore has succumbed to a mildly controversial glamming-up. (Why the Bar Tabac sign? This is Rome, not Paris.) Still, the sophisticated cocktails and affordable salumi spreads attract both the Converse and cravatta sets. $$$

At Testaccio’s most recent hit, Flavio al Velavevodetto, bells and whistles are kept to a minimum. Guanciale, cacio, and chicory make lots of appearances, and the chefs get bold with meat (oxtail takes many forms, and there’s a sublime suckling pig). $$$

This alliance between the buzziest names in Rome’s food scene—brothers Pierluigi and Alessandro Roscoli and Cristina Bowerman—recently opened in Prati. The design of Romeo is a bit of a bizarre marriage (a traditional alimentari counter sits under spaceship-like ceiling panels), but the food is unparalleled. The pillowy ravioli with Castelmagno cheese and pumpkin velouté is a standout. $$$

Rome’s Best Gelato

Gone are the days when the centro storico sequestered the city’s finest ice cream. Now a trip to the (near) suburb of Prati is de rigueur for the most adventurous flavors.

At Gelateria dei Gracchi, it’s about seasonal fruits (from persimmon and quince to mandarin orange) and nuts (pistachio, pignoli, roasted chestnut). Fatamorgana takes the prize for most out-there ingredients and combos—chocolate-tobacco; basil-walnut-honey. But the farthest from town is the holy grail; at otherwise ho-hum-looking Al Settimo Gelo, the door plastered with plaudits from top food guides is the tip-off to the selection inside, from vine-inspired Barolo and plum to Persian-inflected rose water and saffron.

Restaurant Pricing Key
$ Less than $25
$$ $25 to $75
$$$ $75 to $150
$$$$ More than $150

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