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T+L Reports: Restaurante Calima

At Marbella's Restaurante Calima (Avda. José Meliá; 34/952-764-252; dinner for two $200), chef Dani García keeps his menu local—Iberian olive oil, Andalusian jamón, sherry—but manipulates textures like a scientist in a lab, most famously with liquid nitrogen. A deft injection explodes olive oil into popcorn-like morsels, which are served with lobster salad. The spectacular presentation may be what draws the crowds, but it's Andalusia's timeless flavors that bring patrons back for another taste of tradition.

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