San Lorenzo used to be Rome’s hipster, mingle-with-locals neighborhood. But then tourists got a whiff of the clove cigarettes, design cuisine moved in, and San Lorenzo was discovered. Now it’s Pigneto, the charmingly gritty area behind Termini Station, that the style vanguard has infiltrated. Topping the food chain is L’Infernotto Enoteca Ristorante (31–33 Via del Pigneto; 39-06/7030-4040), an airy trattoria whose wooden tables spill onto the street. Eclectic bookshop-bars like Il Tiaso Enolibreria (20 Via Perugia; 39-333/284-5283) and Lo Yeti Libreria-Caffe (4 Via Perugia; 39-06/702-5633)—where filmmakers nurse Negronis—sit next to Bangladeshi grocers and Lebanese restaurants. And, this being Rome, there’s the predictably vibrant outdoor market on Via del Pigneto, where old ladies in housedresses bicker, gossip, and underscore every cliché.