Our favorite new shop in South America is a feel-good find. Pop into Santiago's Makelawen pharmacy (228 San Antonio; 56-2/638-3135) for a soothing Uñoperken remedy, made with chamomile flowers, or Ireire tea, infused with white cedar. Owned and operated by the Chilean Mapuche Indians ("people of the earth"), the shop has parlayed the tribe's generations-old practice of treating ailments with indigenous plants and flowers into a thriving boutique-style apothecary. By selling their herbal therapies to the public, the Mapuche generate income for their tribe—historically the poorest segment of Chile's population. Sure, there's Tums for your upset stomach, but a 1,200-year-old tea blend may just do the trick.
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