The View from Provincetown’s Pilgrim Monument
Published: July 2013
By Peter Frank
What T+L spotted from the top of the 252-foot-tall Pilgrim Monument in Provincetown, at the tip of Cape Cod.
Photo: Christopher Churchill
1. Salt House Inn: P-town’s newest hotel ups the style quotient with white-on-white rooms and an eclectic breakfast spread (egg-and-chorizo tacos with tomatillo salsa; orange crêpe mille-feuille). $
2. Fine Arts Work Center in Provincetown: This lumberyard turned creative hub is where painters such as Helen Frankenthaler and Robert Motherwell had studios—cementing P-town’s onetime reputation as one of America’s biggest art colonies.
3. Peaked Hill Bars Historic District: A few of the “dune shacks” within the Cape Cod National Seashore—where Eugene O’Neill once lived and wrote—are open to artists and writers as part of a summer residency program.
4. Packard Gallery: Anne Packard, granddaughter of American impressionist Max Bohm, exhibits her evocative landscapes in this former church.
5. Yates & Kennedy: The well-edited collection of design objects includes cockatoo-head trophies, vintage wallpaper, and shagreen boxes. 508/487-4400.
6. Harbor Lounge: Enjoy Clown Shoes’ Tramp Stamp IPA, brewed in Massachusetts, in a glassed-in space overlooking the bay—or on a deck that juts out over the beach.
7. Squealing Pig: Ignore the pub’s sign warning that oysters may cause “overfriendliness” and ask for a dozen shucked-to-order briny Wellfleets. $$
8. Arnold’s Bicycle Shop: The dunes of the National Seashore are threaded with roller-coaster-like trails that are perfect for cycling: rent a 21-speed and pack a picnic to eat on the sand at Race Point Beach. 508/487-0844.
9. Dolphin Fleet Whale Watch: From the main pier, catch a whale-watching trip to see humpbacks, finbacks, and others. Tips: head to the upper deck for the best view, and put down the camera once in a while!
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