Where to Stay, Eat, and Go

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When to Go

Equatorial Manaus is a year-round destination. November through April, Montana-based Sweetwater Travel Co. (866/532-5790; www.sweetwatertravel.com) runs weeklong Amazon fly-fishing trips 200 miles northeast of town, where the best peacock bass are found ($4,200 per person, including shuttle flight from Manaus, accommodations, and meals).

Getting There

Lloyd Aéreo Boliviano S.A., or LAB, is the only airline to offer direct overnight flights to Manaus from the States (departing from Miami). For the best service, fly TAM Brazilian Airlines from Newark or Miami to São Paulo. Brazilian carrier Varig and American also fly these routes; Varig operates a four-hour connecting flight to Manaus.

Visas and Immunizations

Visas are required—visit www.brazilny.org for details. An immunization for yellow fever is essential, and if you plan to travel even a short distance outside Manaus, malaria pills are strongly recommended.

Getting Around

Manaus is difficult to navigate—use taxis or a private car service, such as Acara Viagens e Turismo (55-92/3673-2523; acaratur@acaratur.com.br).

Where to Stay

Tropical Manaus
Outside the main city, but the town's best accommodations—with a great breakfast buffet and impressive river views. 1320 Avda. Coronel Teixeira, Ponta Negra; 55-92/2123-5000; www.tropicalhotel.com.br; doubles from $283.

Best Western Lord Manaus
Nicely situated downtown. 217 Rua Marcilio Dias; 55-92/ 3622-2844; www.bestwestern.com; doubles from $85.

Mango Guest House
Upscale backpacker digs. 1 Rua Flávio Espirito Santo; 55-92/3656-6033; www.naturesafaris.com; doubles from $70.

Where to Eat

Bar do Armando (Armando's bar)
593 Rua 10 de Julho (across from the Teatro Amazonas); 55-92/3232-1195; dinner for two $30.

Canto da Peixada
River fish and regional cuisine. 1677 Rua Emílio Moreira; 55-92/3234-3021; dinner for two $35.

What to Do

Mercado Municipal Adolpho Lisboa (the fish market) 46 Rua dos Barés; 55-92/3233-0469.

Teatro Amazonas Praça São Sebastião; 55-92/3622-2420.

For more on luxury travel to the Amazon, consult Eric Sheets (866/626-3750; www.latinexcursions.com), a travel agent on T+L's 2005 A-List.

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