/
Close
Newsletters  | Mobile

The Pleasures of Italy

200710_ss_italy_1-article
Launch Slideshow
Photo: Oberto Gili

Luisa Beccaria

Designer/Milan

"The older I get," fashion designer Beccaria says, "the more I like to return to places I already know." Her base is Milan, which she calls "a pocket city," and "an open-air office." "But in twenty minutes you can be at Lake Como and have dinner at Harry's Bar [1 Piazza Risorgimento, Cernobbio; 39-031/334-7057; dinner for two $97]. In America you'd need a private jet to change scenery that quickly." Her delightfully spare new boutique, Luisa Beccaria (1 Via Formentini, Milan; 39-02/81-417), is painted the palest of pinks.

Milan Favorites Beccaria loves to go out in Brera, Milan's Greenwich Village. She recommends L'Oro dei Farlocchi (13 Via Madonnina; 39-02/860-589), a small antiques store; Obika (28 Via Mercato; 39-02/8645-0568; dinner for two $66), a very new mozzarella bar, where the waiters and waitresses tend to be the sons and daughters of the clientele; Pasticceria Marchesi (11A Via Santa Maria alla Porta; 39-02/876-730), one of Milan's oldest cafés, for coffee and a cornetto; and Latteria di San Marco, (24 Via San Marco; 39-02/659-7653; lunch for two $60) for very simple good food.

Claudio Nardi

Architect/Florence

Nardi's minimalist transformation of the now legendary fashion boutique Luisa Via Roma (19–21R Via Roma; 39-05/283-621; luisaviaroma.com) in the 80's helped attract an international (and now, an online) clientele. Nardi is about to turn the place on its ear again: a new space, scheduled to open in June 2008, will feature a vast glass terrace. Another project in the works is a Palazzo del Profumo, the renovation of an ancient palazzo that will include a museum of fragrances and a restaurant. Nardi recently converted the industrial warehouse where he once had his studio into one of Florence's most innovative hotels, Riva Lofts (98 Via Bandinelli; 39-055/713-0272; rivahotel.it; doubles from $265), run by his 30-year-old daughter. The rooms are spacious and uncluttered. "It took four years to design it and to collect objects and furniture from antiques fairs and flea markets," Nardi says.

Florence Favorites Nardi is a regular at the restaurants Alla Vecchia Bettola (32–34R Viale Ariosto; 39-055/224-158; dinner for two $70) and Trattoria 4 Leoni (1R Via dei Vellutini; 39-055/218-562; dinner for two $85), in a neighborhood full of artisans' workshops, not far from the hotel. And in Borgo Pinti, he likes the lively La Giostra (10–12R Via Borgo Pinti; 39-055/241-341; dinner for two $96).

Eduardo Cicelyn

Museum Director/Naples

This blue-eyed Neapolitan is a prince of contemporary art in Italy—the founder and director of the newly opened Museo d'Arte Contemporanea Donna Regina, or MADRE (79 Via Luigi Settembrini; 39-081/562-4561; museomadre.it). Set in a renovated 17th-century palazzo, the collection is an illustrious grouping of American Pop (Andy Warhol, Jeff Koons) and Italian Arte Povera, along with rooms commissioned from important living artists—local hero Francesco Clemente made frescoes for two of them. The 14th-century Donna Regina church that gave the museum its name is also on site. MADRE's whitewashed vaulted restaurant, Madre E Vino (39-081/1931-3016; dinner for two $90), has just started serving dinner on Friday and Saturday nights.

This blue-eyed Neapolitan is a prince of contemporary art in Italy—the founder and director of the newly opened Museo d'Arte Contemporanea Donna Regina, or MADRE (79 Via Luigi Settembrini; 39-081/562-4561; museomadre.it). Set in a renovated 17th-century palazzo, the collection is an illustrious grouping of American Pop (Andy Warhol, Jeff Koons) and Italian Arte Povera, along with rooms commissioned from important living artists—local hero Francesco Clemente made frescoes for two of them. The 14th-century Donna Regina church that gave the museum its name is also on site. MADRE's whitewashed vaulted restaurant, Madre E Vino (39-081/1931-3016; dinner for two $90), has just started serving dinner on Friday and Saturday nights.

Naples Favorites For Cicelyn, the best part of Naples is the centro storico, the Old Town surrounding the museum. He recommends the 29-room hotel Costantinopoli 104 (104 Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli; 39-081/557-1035; costantinopoli104.com; doubles from $290) and the bar Intra Moenia (70 Piazza Bellini; 39-081/557-1190; intramoenia.it) across the street. The bar's owner also publishes books on Naples.

Advertisement

Sign Up


Connect With Travel + Leisure
  • Travel+Leisure
  • Tablet
  • Available devices

Already a subscriber?
Get FREE ACCESS to the digital edition


Advertisement

Advertisement

Advertisement

Marketplace