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Recently, yellow cabs were introduced in Moscow, putting an end to an era of unreliable and overpriced taxi service. But it's still a good idea to ask your hotel to send a car for you at the airport. Even with the new taxis, the Moscow method of getting around is to hold out your hand and wait until a private car stops—though it may just be a worker on his way home. You'll have to bargain (practice your Russian), but it's an exhilarating way to go. The subway is also an easy option, and some of the stations are works of art. Subway maps come in Russian and English.
HOTELS
Le Royal Meridien National Doubles from $190 15/1 MOKHOVAYA ST. 800/543-4300 or 7-095/258-7000 www.national.ru
Hotel Metropol Doubles from $350 1/4 TEATRALNY PROEZD 7-095/927-6000 www.metropol-moscow.ru
Hotel Baltschug Kempinski The 232-room classical hotel on the banks of the Moskva River has skyline views. Young Muscovites frequent the restaurant for "linner" (Sunday meal between lunch and dinner). Doubles from $400 1 baltschug St. 7-095/230-6500 www.kempinskimoscow.com
Park Hyatt Moscow This modern 219-room hotel within walking distance of Red Square and the Bolshoi Theater opened in October. Doubles from $240 4 NEGLINNAYA ST. 800/233-1234 or 7-095/783-1234 www.moscow.park.hyatt.com
Marriott Royal Hotel Butler service for all 230 rooms, plus a bright indoor pool and a restaurant that serves American beef. Doubles from $285 11/20 PETROVKA st. 800/228-9290 or 7-095/937-1000 www.marriott.com
RESTAURANTS
Café Pushkin Dinner for two $120 26A TVERSKOI BLVD. 7-095/229-5590
Le Duc Dinner for two $200 2 1905 GODA ST.; 7-095/255-0390
Tamerlan Dinner for two $50 30 PRECHISTENKA St. 7-095/202-5649
Uley Dinner for two $70 7 gasheka st.; 7-095/797-4333
Ris i Ryba Dinner for two $90 2 SERAFIMOVICHa ST.; 7-095/959-4949
Restaurant Vanil Dinner for two $200 1/9 OSTOZHENKA ST. 7-095/202-3341
Café Alexandria Dinner for two $60 25 TSVETNOI blvd., BLDG. 1 7-095/299-7712
Oblomov Dinner for two $110 2 1905 goda st. 7-095/255-9290
Mao Dinner for two $100 2 1905 goda st. 7-095/255-5955
Antonio Dinner for two $200 2 1905 GODA ST. 7-095/255-1025
Shinok A Russian restaurant built to resemble a country inn, with a farmyard and real animals. Dinner for two $120 2 1905 GODA ST. 7-095/255-0204
Ilya Ilyich Coffee Shop Quick meals: soup, salads, dumplings. Lunch for two $16 2 1905 goda st. 7-095/255-9290
Nostalgie Russian food, live music, and dancing. Dinner for two $150 12A CHRISTOPRUDNY blvd. 7-095/925-7625
St. Michel A French restaurant, with great wines and cigars. Dinner for two $300 23 TVERSKAYA ST. 7-095/209-5020
NIGHTLIFE
Le Club 21 v. radischevskaya st. 7-095/915-1042
Night Flight Happening disco with a whiff of the old new Moscow (from the mid 1990's). 17 TVERSKAYA St. 7-095/229-4165
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