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The local intelligentsia frequent Filial (254 Rua Fidalga; 55-11/38139226), where schoppe (draft beer) flows into the wee hours.
Alight for the evening in a thatched-roof tree house at Tensing Pen (West End Rd., Negril; 876/957-0387; www.tensingpen.com; doubles from $283) Or, for a splurge, book a suite at The Caves, a charming Cliffside resort just down the road. (West End Rd., 800/688-7678; doubles from 765, all inclusive)
For an active break from the ocean, ask your concierge to book you a session at the Lanai Pine Sporting Clays & Archery Range (lessons from $75); shooting classes are held on a 14-station course that stretches across the islands inland gulches and pampas.
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