Pizza + More
For a taste of authentic Roma the way real Italians like it, pop into Antico Forno Roscioli (34 Via dei Chiavari; 39-06/686-4045; anticofornoroscioli.com), just off the Campo dei Fiori. The storefront is an old grocery that sells artisanal cheeses, fresh bread, and all manner of salumi—cut straight from the whole hog’s legs on display. The state-sponsored Enoteca Provinciale Romana (82-84 Largo del Foro Traiano; 39-06/6766-2424; dinner for two $72) serves Rome province’s top foods and wines. Nattily dressed locavores sip Lazio-produced wines (Frascati; Marino) at blond-wood tables and order such local favorites as smoked provolone wrapped in eggplant. The very authentic 00100 (88 Via Branca; 39-06/4341-9624; 00100pizza.com; pizza for two $15) rivals Gabriele Bondi’s Pizzarium (43 Via della Meloria; 39-06/3974-5416; pizza for two $12) for the best takeout pan pizza in Rome.
Breakfast + Brunch
In his namesake restaurant, Filippo La Mantia (50 Via Vittorio Veneto; 39-06/4214-4715; brunch or lunch for two $112; dinner for two $210; hotelmajestic.com) at Hotel Majestic, the Sicilian chef serves Rome’s best buffet brunch. He eschews onions and garlic in favor of basil, mint, and spices. Try the creamy ribbon pasta with pistachio pesto, grouper, and nutmeg, then end the morning with tangy cassata ice cream over candied fruits.
In 2011, Il Pagliaccio (129A Via dei Banchi Vecchi; 39-06/6880-9595; dinner for two $370; ristoranteilpagliaccio.it) became only the second restaurant in Rome to gain the coveted Three Forks award from the Italian foodie bible Gambero Rosso (after La Pergola, under Heinz Beck). The reason? Anthony Genovese’s palate-startling innovations (risotto with Alpine cheese and persimmon) and pastry chef Marion Lichtle’s daring desserts (rice and red rose parfait).