Breakfast + Sweets
The pastry chef Pierre Hermé’s menu at the new Royal Monceau Raffles Paris (37 Ave. Hoche, Eighth Arr.; 33-1/42-99-88-00; leroyalmonceau.com) is the buzziest breakfast of the moment, but if your vision of a Parisian matin involves baked goods of a more savory sort, claim an outdoor table at Bread & Roses (7 Rue de Fleurus; Sixth Arr.; 33-1/42-22-0606; breadandroses.fr; breakfast for two $30), a chic organic bakery with an unbeatable location on the edge of the Luxembourg Gardens. Press on for more in-depth pastry research at La Pâtisserie des Rêves (93 Rue du Bac, Seventh Arr.; 33-1/42-84-00-82; lapatisseriedesreves.com; pastries for two $11), from the French sugar sultan Philippe Conticini. Burnished tarte Tatin displayed in space-age glass capsules not your speed? Opt for the vibrant fig sorbet just up the street at the artisanal Le Bac à Glaces (109 Rue du Bac, Seventh Arr.; 33-1/45-48-87-65; lebacaglaces.com; sorbet for two $11).
For a midday refueling, head to the 25-seat Rino (46 Rue Trousseau, 11th Arr.; 33-1/48-06-95-85; rino-restaurant.com; lunch for two $56), where young chef Giovanni Passerini sends out an unforgettable sardine ravioli with ricotta and fennel consommé. Or fortify yourself with plump croquettes de jambon at the zinc counter of L’Avant Comptoir (3 Carrefour de l’Odéon, Sixth Arr.; no phone; snacks for two $30), the new hors d’oeuvres bar from alpha-bistronomist Yves Camdeborde.
Venture to the wayward Quartier des Gobelins, where le tout Paris has been flocking to experience the zingy, citrus-inflected cuisine of year-old L’Agrume (15 Rue des Fossés St.-Marcel, Fifth Arr.; 33-1/43-31-86-48; five-course prix fixe dinner for two $96). Chef Franck Marchesi-Grandi is a veteran of such haute kitchens as Le Bernardin, in New York City; at L’Agrume, he and his bubbly wife embrace a more casual vibe, offering vigorous welcomes, generous pricing, and such unexpected delights as ginger-seaweed scallop carpaccio and an ethereal grapefruit soup ringed with an emerald moat of basil oil. Call ahead and ask for comptoir (counter) seats.
Chef Favorites: Christophe Michalak
Christophe Michalak, the award-winning pastry chef at the Plaza Athénée (plaza-athenee-paris.com), offers the scoop on the city’s most decadent treats.
Des Gâteaux et du Pain: Paris’s meilleurs croissants are worth a trek to this design-centric bakery in the 15th. Try the fleur de sel–and-caramel religieuse pastries, too. 63 Blvd. Pasteur; 33-1/45-38-94-16; desgateauxetdupain.com; pastries for two $11.
Du Pain et des Idées: Hit this antiques-filled boulangerie in the 10th Arrondisement for Christophe Vasseur’s astounding baguettes. 34 Rue Yves Toudic; 33-1/42-40-44-52; dupainetdesidees.com; pastries for two $10.
Pain de Sucre: At this beautifully curated Marais patisserie run by a pair of Pierre Gagnaire’s former pastry chefs, try marshmallows in flavors such as rose and angelica. 14 Rue Rambuteau, Third Arr.; 33-1/45-74-68-92; patisseriepaindesucre.com; pastries for two $13.
Patrick Roger: Pavé (a smooth, bitter-chocolate bonbon with lime ganache) is the top choice at adventurous chocolatier Patrick Roger’s stylish boutique. 108 Blvd. St.-Germain, Sixth Arr.; 33-1/43-29-38-42; patrickroger.com; chocolate for two $12.