THE BEST OF ST. ANDREWS
Scottish insider James Cusick reveals the best off-course plays in the Old Town.
New Private Club
The St. Andrews Golfing Society is a members club, housed in the Gateway building, with a gym, sauna and whirlpool. It has three restaurants and many bar and cigar-bar areas. Its balconies have views across the St. Andrews courses. The Society has access to selected tee times at Kingsbarns, with networks expected to link into other local courses. The Gateway, St. Andrews, 877-302-1325.
Bookshop
At the musty Quarto Bookshop, you'll find such rarities as W. G. Simpson's 1887 The Art of Golf, the first book with photographs of the swing. And if you don't see it, just ask Mrs. Margaret Squires. 8 Golf Pl., St. Andrews, 011-44-1334-474616.
Graveyard
Pay your respects to golf's great champions at Cathedral Burial Ground. Buy a map of the Graves of the Golfing Greats and see the final lies of legends Allan Robertson and both Tom Morrises.
Tour
The Original Witches Tour of St. Andrews is a nighttime walk around the old town, where the "jumpers oot" will scare the hell out of you. 3a Drybriggs, Balgarvie, Cupar, 011-44-1334-655057.
Whisky Merchant
Tastings of classic malts, a stash of more than five hundred whiskies and a savvy staff make Luvians Bottleshop essential to any connoisseur. If this shop hasn't got it, it'll get it. 66 Market St., St. Andrews, 011-44-1334-477752.
Deli
Butler & Company is a treasure trove of local and international specialties. Speak to owner Angela Butler—whose family runs the Seafood Restaurant—for quality local fare, such as Bishop Kennedy cheese. 10 Church St., St. Andrews, 011-44-1334-470077.
Fish & Chips
Among those in the know, Murray's Chippy—a mobile fish-and-chips shop—uses the freshest fish in the area. Look for the white van with purple writing.
Ice Cream
B. Jannetta, opposite the Byre Theatre, features fifty-two flavors, including the local speciality, Irn Bru sorbet. 31 South St., St. Andrews, 011-44-1334-473285.
Afternoon Tea
Ask for table 104, 105 or 106 at the Rusacks Hotel. Sit down to afternoon tea on crisp linen tablecloths and look out over the home hole of the Old Course. Pilmour Links, St. Andrews, 011-44-1334-474321.
£25 ($43) You Can Spend
You can only "request" a caddie for the Old Course. So speak very, very nicely to the caddie manager, Richard MacKenzie. On the maze that is the Old Course, this is money well spent. 011-44-1334-466666.
No-Nonsense Golf Lesson
PGA pro Bill Murray is an old-school Scot. Loud, direct, full of stories and thoroughly knowledgeable. "If ye can see the damn thing, it's a seven-iron. If ye canna see it, it's a five." 011-44-1382-543339.
Boat Trip
From the harbor at Anstruther, a forty-five-minute ride brings you to the wee Isle of May, a major bird sanctuary and nature reserve. Coastguards House, 12 Shore Rd., Anstruther, 011-44-1333-310103.
Good Walk Unspoiled
The Chain Walk at Elie is best described as a "headland scramble." Hand- and footholds are carved into the coastal rocks. Chains are attached to the rocks, assisting you as you make your way. Purchase Owen Silver's Fife and Kinross-shire Walks from the St. Andrews Tourist Office.
Bunker
During the Cold War, the U.K. government built The Secret Bunker, a concrete labyrinth one hundred feet down. Enter through a farmhouse cottage and find cinemas, a café and the RAF command center, all basically intact. Take the B9131 toward Anstruther. Follow the brown thistle signs.
Rainy-Day Golf
The Scottish National Golf Centre, at Drumoig, includes indoor golf facilities such as a full-size pitching area with water hazards and bunkers. 011-44-1382-541144.
Movie Theater
The New Picture House is more Last Picture Show than multiplex. They don't make them like this anymore. North St., St. Andrews, 011-44-1334-473509.
Place to Find History
The great thing about The British Golf Museum is that after going, you walk outside and see that little has changed from the old pictures. Bruce Embankment, St. Andrews, 011-44-1334-478880.
Place to Buy History
Auchterlonies of St. Andrews has been making and collecting clubs since 1895. Old clubs start at about $61. Golf Pl., St. Andrews, 011-44-1334-475993.
Place to Make History
Chipped in from the Valley of Sin?Birdied the Road Hole?The St. Andrews Links Trust will make an iron plaque with the St. Andrews logo, your name and a description of your feat ($460). 011-44-1334-466666.
Way to Relive History
The Links Trust can arrange a video record of you playing the Old Course's first and last holes. The action is edited overnight ($265 per person). 011-44-1334-466671.
Claret Jug Replica
The Old Course Hotel jewelers make a silver-plated replica of the jug for $345. So what if it looks more like the Senior's Tradition trophy?011-44-1334-474371.
Kilt Maker
If dressing like Rob Roy will enhance your Scottish experience, visit Kirk Wynd. Highland House, 149a Market St., St. Andrews, 011-44-1334-473268.
Rolls-Royce Hire
For a Silver Shadow, call Cargill. Newport on Tay, Fife, 011-44-1382-816805.
—James Cusick
