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Ten Days in the Pacific Northwest

The Facts

Seattle

WHERE TO STAY
Plaza Park Suites [Now known as Summerfield Suites] 1011 Pike St.; 800/426-0670 or 206/682-8282, fax 206/682-5315; suites $129­$315, including a continental breakfast buffet. Our top recommendation for families: children under 17 stay free.
The Four Seasons Olympic [Now known as the Fairmont Olympic Hotel] 411 University St.; 206/621-1700, fax 206/623-2681; www.fairmont.com/seattle; doubles $295­$365. The city's preeminent hotel caters to young guests with bedtime cookies and milk (or popcorn and root beer for teens), and kid-size terry robes upon request.
Hotel Monaco 1101 Fourth Ave.; 800/715-6513 or 206/621-1770; www.monaco-seattle.com; doubles from $195. A stylish new boutique hotel with bright, playful rooms (including, if you want, your own pet goldfish).

WHERE TO EAT
Chinook's Fishermen's Terminal 1900 W. Knickerson St.; 206/283-4665; dinner for a family of four $60. Great value smack on the docks, with a view of the biggest fishing fleet on the American Pacific shore.
Ivar's Acres of Clams Pier 54 (off Alaskan Way); 206/624-6852; dinner for four $60. Your choice: fish-and-chips or sesame king salmon with soba noodles. Nab a window table so you can watch the ferries.
Cucina! Cucina! 901 Fairview Ave. N.; 206/447-2782; dinner for four $50. A high-energy trattoria overlooking Lake Union that serves pastas and wood-fired pizzas. If you ask, the waiters will deliver little mounds of dough for sculpting. [This location is no longer in operation. For other locations, visit www.cucinacucina.com]
Queen City Grill 2201 First Ave.; 206/443-0975; www.queencitygrill.com; dinner for four $70. Simple grilled fare (and big martinis for mom and dad) in the up-and-coming Belltown neighborhood.

Orcas Island

WHERE TO STAY
Cascade Harbor Inn Eastsound; 800/201-2120 or 360/376-6350, fax 360/376-6354; doubles from $54, suites from $114. A great value.
Rosario 1400 Rosario Road, Eastsound; 866/801-7625 or 360/376-2222, fax 360/376-3680; doubles from $180, suites from $200. If my husband and I were stealing away for a weekend, we'd choose this 30-acre former estate of Seattle shipbuilder Robert Moran. The guest rooms—in buildings adjoining the main house—have just undergone a much-needed refurbishment.

WHERE TO EAT
Orcas Room Rosario [Now known as the Mansion Dining Room] 1400 Rosario Road, Eastsound; 360/376-2222; dinner for four $90. Although we found the food uneven, you can't beat watching seaplanes zoom in and out of the bay.
La Famiglia Ristorante Eastsound 360/376-2335; dinner for four $60. A comfortable place with lots of local families sampling fresh oysters, scampi, and linguine puttanesca.[This business is no longer in operation]
Café Olga Olga 11 Point Lawrence Rd., Olga; 360/376-5098; brunch for four $30. A Sunday brunch classic in a local artist's co-op. Try the cinnamon rolls as big as a plate.

North Cascades

WHERE TO STAY
Sun Mountain Lodge Patterson Lake Rd., Winthrop; 800/572-0493 or 509/996-2211, fax 509/996-3133; doubles $130­$250. The area's top destination resort, with 115 guest rooms and cabins. In summer, a kids' camp for four- to nine-year-olds offers morning and afternoon crafts, nature walks, and lake activities; there's also an evening kids' program for that crucial parents' night out.
Freestone Inn 31 Early Winters Drive, Mazama; 800/639-3809 or 509/996-3906, fax 509/996-3907; www.freestoneinn.com; doubles $95­$200, cabins $85­$195. The latest place to stay, a tasteful lodgepole-pine structure set at the head of the valley, overlooking a stocked trout lake. The Early Winters cabins are a great find and a good deal.

WHERE TO EAT
Dining Room Sun Mountain Lodge, Winthrop; 509/996-2211; dinner for four $120. An elegantly rustic, warm, and romantic restaurant overlooking the Methow Valley. Chef Jeff James, formerly of the Freestone, and prior to that sous-chef at Oregon's Salishan Lodge, does not disappoint. The lodge also has a more casual café called the Eagle's Nest.
Freestone Inn Mazama; 509/996-3906; dinner for four $120. Main courses might be hearty lamb shanks or roasted salmon. The chef makes his own ice creams, and after a day in the saddle (bike or horse) you won't let them go to waste.

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