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T+L Reports: Tasting Singapore

Although the city has a 75 percent ethnic-Chinese population, the majority of Singapore's Chinese restaurants are surprisingly ho-hum or downright tacky. But a wave of openings is giving the cuisine new life. Foremost among them is My Humble House (8 Raffles Ave., Suite 02-27; 65/6423-1881; dinner for two $92), the first venture abroad for Zhang Jin Jie, a celebrity chef in her native China. The hyper-modern look and "post-Sichuan" cooking are anything but modest: fried rice with olives and crabmeat; scallops with fresh lily bulbs; seafood soup accented with wolfberries and served in a coconut shell. Hu Cui (391 Orchard Rd.; 65/6238-1011; dinner for two $58), a series of warmly lit dining rooms in the Ngee Ann City shopping mall, draws a trendy crowd that lingers over artfully presented dim sum, especially the Shanghainese dumplings filled with tangy broth. Si Chuan Dou Hua (80 Raffles Place; 65/6535-6006; dinner for two $58) sits atop a 60-story tower, offering skyline views through immense portal-style windows. Cream-colored fabrics and limestone walls make for a cool setting, while spicy dishes such as stir-fried prawns with chile and barbecued suckling pig pack plenty of heat.
—Peter Jon Lindberg

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