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Early fall—when temperatures hover just above 70 degrees— is the ideal time to visit this region of northeastern Italy. September is particularly delightful, and the cooler autumn months of October and November bring the Barbera and Moscato wine harvests, along with the crowds who arrive for white truffle season.
The towns around Alba and Asti, the gastronomic heart and soul of Piedmont, are about two hours from Turin, the region's largest metropolis. Fly to Turin International Airport (TRN) and rent a car, a must for touring the hills of Le Langhe. Flights from North America connect through Rome, Milan, Paris, Frankfurt, or Munich.
Castello di Verduno
The enormous baroque rooms of this shabby-chic castle on a hill south of Alba go a long way toward helping guests overlook the spartan amenities (there's no TV—or phone).
9 Via Umberto I, Verduno; 39-0172/470-125; www.castellodiverduno.com; doubles from $75.
Hotel Castello di Sinio
A luxurious base camp for exploring Le Langhe, run by a knowledgeable American couple with a passion for the food and wine of Piedmont.
1 Viccolo Castello, Sinio; 39-0173/263-889; www.hotelcastellodisinio.com; doubles from $188.
Marchesi Alfieri
A spacious, tastefully appointed private farmhouse with outstanding views, on the grounds of a winery famed for its Barbera d'Asti.
28 Piazza Alfieri, San Martino Alfieri, Asti; 39-0141/976-015; www.marchesialfieri.it; doubles from $115; to purchase Marchesi Alfieri Barbera d'Asti in the United States, call 425/747-9241.
Relais San Maurizio
At the summit of steep, vineyard-covered slopes, this former monastery, decked out in grand florals and Murano glass chandeliers, features a Caudalie spa.
39 Localita San Maurizio, Santo Stefano Belbo, 39-0141/841-900; www.relaissanmaurizio.it; doubles from $337.
Antico Caffè Callisano
In the vaulted arcade of Alba's Piazza Duomo, this 18th-century confection of pink marble and gilt is the preferred first stop for truffle hunters seeking an eye-opener on market mornings in November.
3 Piazza Risorgimento, Alba; 39-0173/442-101; coffee and pastries for two $10.
Caffè al Bicerin
The signature bicerin (melted chocolate, coffee, and cream) has been served at this Turin landmark since 1763.
5 Piazza della Consolata, Turin; 39-011/436-9325; pastries and hot chocolate for two $6; www.bicerin.com.
Caffè Converso
You, too, might spy Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini downing an espresso at this ornate turn-of-the-19th-century café and bakery.
199 Via Vittorio Emanuele II, Bra; 39-0172/413-626; coffee and pastries for two $6.
Ciau del Tornavento
The 45,000-bottle wine cellar, peerless cheese selection, and adventurous modern Italian food are the draws at this restaurant, where ho-hum ambience is redeemed by stunning views.
7 Piazza Baracco, Treiso; 39-0173/638-333; dinner for two $152.
Grom
This new-school gelateria meticulously sources all ingredients—from cream and eggs to add-ins like cornmeal cookies and coffee.
1D Piazza Paleocapa, Turin; 39-011/511-9067; gelato for two $6.
Guido
An old-world warmth suffuses the service in this dramatic, modern room; the kitchen turns out contemporary riffs on traditional Piedmontese comfort foods.
19 Via Fossano, Pollenzo; 39-0172/458-422; dinner for two $190.
I Bologna
Owned and operated by an esteemed Bologna wine-making family, this trattoria cooks impeccably fresh, flavorful renditions of esoteric regional classics.
4 Via Nicola Sardi, Rocchetta Tanaro; 39-0141/644-600; dinner for two $100.
La Bottega del Vicoletto
A great place to stock up for a picnic, this shop cooks up dishes to go and offers local cheeses and rare provisions such as venison prosciutto.
6 Via Bertero, Alba; 39-0173/ 363-196; picnic for two $25.
L'Angolo di Paradiso
Dining at "Da Cesare," as the locals call it, is like being in chef Cesare Giaccone's kitchen. His signature capretto, or roast baby goat, is cooked on a spit in an open fireplace in the restaurant.
12 Via Umberto, Albaretto Torre; 39-0173/520-141; dinner for two $180.
Osteria de la Rosa Rossa
Book early to get a table at this casual, homey osteria serving seriously delicious snails.
31 Via San Pietro, Cherasco; 39-0172/ 488-133; dinner for two $28.
Osteria LaLibera
This sleek corner room attracts an international crowd for its inventive preparations of market-to-table fresh ingredients.
24A Via Elvio Pertinace, Alba; 39-0173/293-155; dinner for two $100.
Piazza Duomo
In a pink minimalist space, chef Enrico Crippi serves avant-garde Italian food made with rarely seen ingredients like hop sprouts and goat's beard.
4 Piazza Risorgimento, Alba; 39-0173/442-800; dinner for two $178.
Enoteca Regionale del Barolo
Sommeliers pour wine from a cross section of Barolo's producers.
Castello Falletti, Barolo; 39-0173/56277; www.baroloworld.it; $4 for a flight of three wines.
Il Bacco
A superb, tiny boutique cellar with some of the best wines in the region.
87 Via Roma, Barolo; 39-0173/56233.
I Piaceri del Gusto
This wine store's deep selection of books (in many languages) on Piedmontese wine and food complements a cellar of excellent, hard-to-find bottles.
25 Via Vittorio Emanuele II, Alba; 39-0173/440-166.
Tartufi Ponzio
This shoebox-sized shop has an extensive selection of outstanding sauces, vinegars, and oils, many of which are made with the shop's winter stock-in-trade—white truffles.
26 Via Vittorio Emanuele II, Alba; 39-0173/440-456.
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