It would be hard to top what we sampled at Grom, which was an outstandingly rich, smooth gianduja made with intense Tonda Gentile hazelnuts from Le Langhe, and a stracciatella made with chocolate from Turin's finest chocolatier, Guido Gobino. There was also a raspberry gelato whipped up from organic berries so sweet that just a hint of sugar had been added.
But for comparison's sake, we hustled over to Fiori, in the heart of the pedestrian-choked university district. Fiori was making no big deal about its flavors or ingredients, just working as fast as it could to make a dent in the line stretching out from the streetside window. We got six small cups to try (two flavors in each cup), and in short order, the cups were empty. The pistachio was genuinely nutty, deserving of its name.
Caught up in the heat of the competition, we then jogged over to Gelateria Silvano, on the Via Nizza. It was our incredible good fortune, before anything got out of hand, to find a sign in the window: CHIUSO. In our book, every guest should leave something for the sequel.