Huesca's Food Revolution
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Huesca's Food Revolution

David Cicconi Café Juliana, the sister restaurant to Las Torres David Cicconi
Huesca, Aragon's provincial capital, has long been known for its medieval castle. Now a group of innovative chefs is turning it into a pilgrimage site for food lovers.

DESTINATION Huesca, Spain GO FROM Madrid, Barcelona TRAVEL TIME 21/2 hours (Madrid), 31/2 hours (Barcelona) Getting There From Madrid, take the high-speed train; from Barcelona, it's most efficient to drive (the train or bus will add at least one hour) STAY 1–2 nights

WHERE TO EAT The native Abadía brothers put Huesca on the culinary map in 1989, when they opened Las Torres (3 Calle María Auxiliadora; 34/974-228-213; dinner for two $105) with an unusual Mediterranean menu that changes seasonally (local Sieso cheese–flavored ice cream in spring, cold red-pepper soup with balsamic gelée in summer). Recently, they expanded their portfolio with the über-modern Café Juliana (Intermodal; Calle Gil Calvez; 34/974-215-121; lunch for two $35), located inside the city's train station. Advertising executives and artists sit beside large plate-glass windows, lingering over langoustines and creamy saffron rice. ● At the more formal Lillas Pastia (4 Plaza de Navarra; 34/974-211-691; dinner for two $60), tucked into a corner of the city's former Art Nouveau casino, chef Carmelo Bosque infuses monkfish with vanilla and dresses roasted chicken with green apples and Manchego cheese. ● An old-fashioned farmhouse is the setting for Venta del Sotón (Carr. A 132, Km 14, Esquedas; 34/974-270-241; dinner for two $115), where the meal begins with a tasting of five Spanish olive oils. The 15,000-bottle wine cellar complements a menu that emphasizes Aragonese favorites like roasted kid and baby potatoes.

WHERE TO STAY Built into the remains of the 1,000-year-old city walls, La Posada de la Luna (10 Calle Joaquin Costa; 34/974-240-857; doubles from $100) looks rustic—exposed-brick walls, hardwood floors—but has heated towel racks and free Wi-Fi.

WHAT TO SEE You can't visit the town without admiring the flying buttresses of La Catedral de Huesca (Plaza de la Catedral; 34/974-220- 676), a Gothic church built on the ruins of a mosque. ● At Spain's oldest dry-goods store, Ultramarinos La Confianza (Camino Viejo de Cillas; 34/974-340-161), freshly baked bread shares shelf space with regional delicacies such as Somontano wine, pañoleta cheeses, and candied chestnuts. ● The Romanesque towers and 11th-century monastery at Loarre Castle (34/974-382-627) are just 22 miles from town. The fortress juts out from a rocky precipice, giving visitors spectacular views of the Pyrenees.

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