England's love of tradition keeps chipping away at the Cool Britannia veneer. A host of hungry Londoners (and Hollywood A-listers) have been eschewing British Moderne cuisine for tried-and-true fish-and-chips. When Britney Spears recently stayed at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, rumor has it she bypassed room service and sent out for nothing other than the deep-fried treat; Kate Moss and rocker Noel Gallagher have been sighted getting newspaper-wrapped "take-away" at chippies around town. For an old-school fix, fish fans head to the pubby Sea Shell (49-51 Lisson Grove; 44-207/224-9000), in the fry for 30 years. Maida Vale's Fishbar (2-4 Fernhead Rd.; 44-208/960-3434) serves contemporary adaptations of the classic—such as yellowfin tuna with spicy Puy lentils. Pass the vinegar.
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