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Guide to Sicily

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When to Go

May is the best time—cool enough to visit the cities but warm enough to enjoy a swim. From mid-June through August you won't want to stray far from the beach in southeastern Sicily.

How to Get There

Until the new airport outside Ragusa opens in December, flying into Catania is your best bet. There is regular service from Rome and other European cities, and direct flights via Rome or Milan from New York, Boston, and Washington, D.C. Rent a car at the Catania airport (Hertz and Avis are the most reliable) and chart a circular tour: Siracusa, Noto, Modica, Ragusa. The distances are small; you could drive across the whole region in two hours.

Where to Stay

Caol Ishka Hotel

Via Elorina, Contrada Pantanelli, Siracusa; 39-0931/69057; Caolishka.com; doubles from $256.

Casa Talía

1/9 Via Exaudinos, Modica; 39-0932/752-075; Casatalia.it; doubles from $162.

Hotel Eremo della Giubiliana

A former monk's retreat, now an 11-room boutique hotel south of Ragusa. Contrada Giubiliana, Km. 7.5, S.P. Marina di Ragusa; 39-0932/669-119; EremodellaGiubiliana.it; doubles from $336.

Palazzo Failla

The hotel has maintained the feeling of a Sicilian villa, with wrought-iron fixtures, frescoed, vaulted ceilings, and antique furniture. 5 Via ­Blandini, Modica; 39-0932/941-059; PalazzoFailla.it; doubles from $182.

Where to Eat

Antica Dolceria Bonajuto

159 Corso Umberto I, Modica; 39-0932/941-225; cannoli for two $3.

Caffè Sicilia

125 Corso Vittorio Emanuele, Noto; 39-0931/835-013; gelato for two $5.

Duomo

The most famous restaurant in the region, the only one to get two stars from Michelin. Chef Ciccio Sultano's business partner, Angelo Di Stefano, looks like a Sicilian Oscar Wilde. 31 Via Capitano Bocchieri, Ragusa; 39-0932/651-265; dinner for two $269.

Fattoria delle Torri

Peppe Barone's sweet-and-sour rabbit was the best version I tasted. 14 Vico Napolitano, Modica; 39-0932/751-286; dinner for two $102.

La Gazza Ladra

A restaurant helmed by chef Accursio Craparo, next door to Palazzo Failla. Try the branzino fillet with saffron and potatoes. 5 Via ­Blandini, Modica; 39-0932/755-655; dinner for two $130.

Le Ularie

A dim, cool restaurant in the center of town that specializes in fish. 18 Via S. La Rosa, Noto; 39-0931/574-818; dinner for two $95.

Masseria degli Ulivi

Contrada Porcari, Noto; 39-0931/813-019; lunch for two $80.

Where to Sip

Planeta

Visits and tastings must be booked in advance. Contrada Dispensa, Menfi; 39-0925/80009; Planeta.it.

COS Winery

Tours are free but reservations are required. S.P. 3 Acate, Chiaremonte Ragusa; 39-0932/876-145; Locandos.it.

What to Read

The Patience of the Spider, by Andrea Camilleri, the latest in a series set in the region and featuring the Sicilian detective, Inspector Montalbano.

What to listen to

Eva Contro Eva

The most recent CD from Catanian singer-songwriter Carmen Consoli.

Copyright © 2009, American Express Publishing. All rights reserved.