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T+L Reports: Shop Portland, Bocce Ball

intoxicating retreat
Les Sources de Caudalie takes its cue from the hills of Bordeaux. The 29-room hotel, which opened in July, is a spirited homage to France's finest harvest, with grapevines adorning the lobby and "vinotherapy" treatments in the spa. Wine makers Daniel and Florence Cathiard, who built the hotel on their 14th-century vineyard estate, Château Smith Haut-Lafitte, scoured the countryside for battered barn timbers, stone fountains, and handwoven linens. Spa treatments employ grape-seed extract from the château's Sauvignon crop; mineral water from the estate's hot spring fills a swimming pool overlooking the vines. After you've soaked in an oak-barrel bubble bath, dine on chef Didier Banyols's lobster with rice and chestnuts, and sample the château's own smoky vintage.Les Sources de Caudalie, Chemin de Smith Haut-Lafitte, Martillac; 33-5/57-83-83-83, fax 33-5/57-83-83-84; doubles from $190.
—Shane Mitchell

Shops . . . Massages . . . Trends . . . Hotels . . .

portland on the half shell
The Pearl District in Portland, Oregon, was once full of abandoned warehouses and scruffy bars. Now galleries, boutiques, and antiques shops are infusing the streets with cosmopolitan style. • While Sheryl Acheson scours estate sales for Japanese furniture, her sister Lisa snaps up Parisian jewelry. Their passions are united at Coco Ki mono (402 N.W. 12th Ave); 503/525-0319). • A paean to the erotic flower, Alameda Orchids (404 N.W. 12th Ave); 503/295-6899) sells dendrobiums, paphiopedilums, and oncidiums. • Oblation Papers & Press (516 N.W. 12th Ave.; 503/223-1093) carries flower-flecked paper and hand-bound books. • French Quarter (536 N.W. 14th Ave.; 503/223-3879) imports high-end toiletries and the finest European linens. • At Cultured Pearl (539 N.W. 12th Ave.; 503/226-4262), you might turn up quirky antiques from America and Europe: a Provençal fromage cabinet, an 18th-century Pennsylvania Dutch step-back pine cupboard, and green glazed Turkish olive jars.
—Hannah Wallace

positive attraction
Practiced for centuries in the East, therapy with magnets is now gaining acceptance in the West. During the new Energetic Magnetic Massage at San Francisco's 77 Maiden Lane Salon & Spa, the client lies on a magnet-filled mattress while a therapist kneads muscles and pressure points with a magnetic rolling pin. The effect is soporific, or as therapist Yolanda Forootan says, "It's a much deeper massage." 77 Maiden Lane; 415/391-7777; massage $85.
—Mandy Behbehani

on the ball
The favorite sports of sun-weathered Mediterranean men, boule and bocce, have suddenly become fashionable. Trendy young Londoners buy traditional boule sets at Ealing Sports (7 The Hall; 44-181/840-6865; $66) and battle it out in Hyde Park. Swedes in the know head to Tessinparken, in a posh neighborhood of Stockholm. In New York, downtown types fight for the indoor bocce courts uptown at Il Vagabondo restaurant (351 E. 62nd St.; 212/832-9221). But the biggest U.S. scene is in Sonoma, where the cool crowd plays every Wednesday evening at Depot Park.
—Richard Alleman

danish redesign
After more than a decade of thoughtless redecorating, Copenhagen's Arne Jacobsen­designed Radisson SAS Royal Hotel had become a hodgepodge. In a noble attempt to revive the 265-room Modernist classic, German-Iranian architect and decorator Yasmine Mahmoudieh is directing a massive renovation, fitting rooms with walls of backlighted amoeba shapes and furniture by Nordic stars, including Jacobsen. Again, as in the hotel's glory years, Egg and Swan chairs abound. Radisson SAS Royal Hotel Copenhagen, 1 Hammerichsgade; 45/3342-6000; doubles from $186.
—Karina Porcelli

Fashion . . . Camps . . . Neighborhoods . . . Galleries . . .

mapping it out
From Prague to Hong Kong, destinations are the inspiration for designer Amy Smilovic's new clothing line, Tibi (912/638-6465; silk skirts from $170). Traveling to a new city each season, Smilovic incorporates the shapes she sees: the Prague Opera House's ceiling in an embroidered wool shift, say, or the Eiffel Tower in a postcard-print skirt. This chic little line is far more sophisticated than the average souvenir. Next up on her itinerary: India.
—Kristine Ziwica

surfing safari
Las Olas transforms women into girls — surfer girls. But this new weeklong surf camp, held at an oceanside resort 40 miles south of Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, angles for a grown-up experience with open-air palapa suites, hot showers (unheard-of at your typical surf camp), and massages. Because of a tsunami of interest among women ages 20 to 50, the number of sessions has jumped from four this year to 11 in 2000. It's easy to see why: the price, $1,395 a person, includes room, meals, instruction — and the odd bonfire. Las Olas, Sayulita, Mexico; 707/746-6435, fax 707/745-2261.
—Jennifer Howze

now showing in seattle
The newest stop on the modern art pilgrimage is Seattle, thanks to Bagley and Virginia Wright. The two recently opened a gallery, 407 Dexter, to show pieces from their own collection: Pollocks, de Koonings, Rothkos. Currently on display are never-before-seen canvases by color-field artists Morris Louis, David Salle, and John Baldessari; the Wrights promise a Richard Serra exhibition next. 407 Dexter Ave. N.; 206/264-8200.
—Raul Barreneche

a tale of two meat-packing districts
NEW YORK CITY
The Place: The area around 14th St. between Ninth Ave. and the Weat Side Hwy. Home of meat-packers, prostitutes, and hot restaurants and shops.
Where To Eat: The new Pastis (9 Nith Ave.; dinner for two $70), opened by Keith McNally, who owns Balthazar. If you can get in...
People Watching:The bar at organic restaurant Fressen 421 w. 13th St.; 212/645-7775).
Notorious Night spot: Hogs & Heifers (859 Washington St.; 212/929-0655), where Julia Roberts famously guzzled tequila and hung her bra on the wall.
Shopping: Manolo, Yves Saint Laurent, and Courreges at Jeffrey (449 W. 14th St.; 212/206-1272), a spare, concrete-florred former storage facility.
View Of The Twin Towers: Find the intersection of cobblestoned 10th Ave. and Little w. 12th St., and crane your neck.

AUSTIN, MINNESOTA
The Place: Southeast of Minneapolis, off Interstate 90. Home of Hormel Foods Corp., the producer of Spam.
Where To Eat: Jerry's Other Palce (1207 N. Main St.; 507/433-2331; dinner for two $40); for rib-sticking "loose meat" sandwhiches and apple pie.
People Watchcing: Nemirz's Books & Tobacco (407 N. Main St.; 507/433-3918).
Notorious Night Spot: Hey Rubes (117 N.E. Second Ave.; 507/437-8808), with the Midwest's "Largest Jim Bean Bottle Collection."
Shopping: The luncheon-meat-can earrings at the Oak Park Mall's Spam Historical Museum (order yours on www.spam.com).
View Of The Twin Towers: Yes - the Twin Towers apartment complex in downtown Austin.

Eco-resorts . . . Crafts . . . Bags . . . Restaurants . . .

florida unplugged
Stanley Selengut, founder of St. John's Maho Bay Camps, will manage Florida's new eco-resort, the Refuge at Ocklawaha, 65 miles northwest of Orlando. This nature lover's paradise sits in the middle of 6,000 acres of forest and wetland, perfect for canoeing and kayaking. With its neighbor the Ocala National Forest, a seemingly infinite number of trails make for spectacular birding and bicycling. Meals, served in a 1930's hunting lodge, consist of local fare such as catfish and alligator tail. Fifteen secluded Old Florida Cracker­style cottages offer guests the simple pleasures: screened porches with rocking chairs and a backyard habitat that lures butterflies and wild turkeys.Refuge at Ocklawaha, 14835 S.E. 85th St., Ocklawaha, Fla.; 800/392-9004; cottages from $125 a night.
—Janis Frawley-Holler

stop and tink
During a round-the-world vacation last spring, illustrator Claudia Pearson stumbled upon a community of artists in Cape Town, South Africa, whose work is made almost exclusively from recycled materials — soda cans, grocery labels, telephone wire. Pearson loaded up on her new friends' clever items and now sells them at Tink, her storefront studio on Manhattan's Lower East Side. Twisted chicken wire comes to Tink shaped into African busts, miniature shoes, and tote bags. Scope out the battery-operated radios made of industrial-steel wire and soda cans, and the Zulu telephone-wire baskets. Pearson also sells beautiful finds from Bali and Samoa — coconut-wood spoons, straw bags, tree-bark ceremonial cloths. We tink you'll love it! Tink, 42 Rivington St.; 212/529-6356.
—Elizabeth Garnsey

like butter
At Butter, a new self-proclaimed "white-trash bistro" in San Francisco's SoMa district, DJ's spin as the aroma of SpaghettiOs wafts from the kitchen — the food groups here are grease, sugar, caffeine, and alcohol. A typical evening's doings include a Dukes of Hazzard marathon and a bubble-blowing performance by a beehived babe perched on a vinyl stool. Butter, 354 11th St.; 415/863-5964; dinner for two $15.
—Michelle Pentz

must-have
You'll be lucky if you can get your hands on one of the precious few totes at the Paris store Colette, created by Balmain assistant designer Olivia Le Tan. Her hand-stitched and -beaded fleecy sensations are the envy of Paris, and are selling out faster than she can make them. Colette, 213 Rue St.-Honoré; 33-1/55-35-33-90; $325.
—E.G.

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