The Facts

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Serious shoppers will find a translator indispensable when it comes to bargaining (and unearthing smaller, out-of-the-way stores). Try independent translator Christine Che (86-1370/162-7314; che_melb@hotmail.com; from $145 per day) or Speed (86-21/6447-4185; www.speed-asia.com; from $100 per day). Shanghai's two most reputable taxi companies are Da Zhong (turquoise cars; 86-21/6258-1688) and Qiang Sheng (yellow cars; 86-21/6258-0000). Negotiate a day rate ahead of time (usually about $84 for eight hours). U.S. Customs allows U.S. residents to return with only one trademark-protected item per type (one knockoff bag, one counterfeit watch)—so don't stock up on fakes for your friends.

WHERE TO STAY
BEST VALUE Grand Hyatt Shanghai
The highest hotel in the world—located in the top part of the Jin Mao Tower—has 555 rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the city and the Huang Pu River. Corner rooms on floors 60 through 65 offer the most dramatic views. Don't miss drinks in the Cloud 9 sky lounge on the 87th floor.
DOUBLES FROM $200. 88 CENTURY BLVD., PUDONG; 800/233-1234 OR 86-21/5049-1234; www.shanghai.grand.hyatt.com

Portman Ritz-Carlton
A 50-story skyscraper on Nanjing Xi Road, a major shopping street. The marble lobby is inset with dazzling fiber-optic lights; the rooms are more soothing. The three-story health club is among Shanghai's largest.
DOUBLES FROM $370. 1376 NANJING XI RD.; 800/241-3333 OR 86-21/6279-8888; www.ritzcarlton.com

WHERE TO EAT
Jean Georges Shanghai
Jean-Georges Vongerichten reinterprets French classics using local ingredients.
DINNER FOR TWO $181. THREE ON THE BUND, FOURTH FLOOR, 3 ZHONG SHAN DONG YI RD.; 86-21/6321-7733

M on the Bund
Freshly baked breads, house-made ice cream and desserts, and Middle Eastern- and Mediterranean-influenced dishes in an airy, Art Deco-inspired space. Reserve a spot on the roof terrace for Sunday brunch.
DINNER FOR TWO $109. 20 GUANG DONG RD., SEVENTH FLOOR; 86-21/6350-9988

Mid-Lake Pavilion Tea House
The quintessential Chinese teahouse, outside the Yuyuan Gardens in Old Shanghai.
TEA FOR TWO $12. 86-21/6355-8270

Ye Shanghai
Inside a stone gatehouse, red lanterns and dark woods evoke Shanghai of the 1930's. Try the smoked egg and stir-fried river shrimp.
DINNER FOR TWO $60. 338 HUANG PI NAN RD., NORTH BLOCK, XINTIANDI; 86-21/6311-2323

WHERE TO SHOP
Bespoke Tailors
Dean Ding
This stellar seamstress can whip up beautifully detailed, made-to-measure silk jackets, cheongsams (dresses), and robes in two days.
BY APPOINTMENT ONLY; WOMEN'S JACKETS START AT $34. 86-21/5465-0890

Lin Mei Chin
Custom sweaters in silk and multi-ply cashmere. Copy your favorite piece or design from scratch; allow 10 days. Bring a translator.
BY APPOINTMENT ONLY; SET OF THREE WOOL SWEATERS STARTS AT $194. 93 LING LING RD.; 86-1370/195-5249

Fabrics
Silk King Market
A government-sponsored fabric bazaar, more orderly (but less atmospheric) than Dong Jia Du, with English spoken on-site. Best for richly colored silk velvets, raw silk-linen blends, and colorful linings; tailors on the premises can turn things around quickly.
OPEN 9 A.M.-9 P.M. 139 TIANPING RD.; 86-21/6282-1533

Furniture/Housewares
Henry Antique Warehouse
359 HONGZHONG RD.; 86-21/6401-0831; www.h-antique.com

Madame Mao's Dowry
70 FUXING XI RD.; 86-21/6437-1255

Olive
Chic goods for the home.
369 ZI ZHONG RD.; 86-21/6385-5406

Shanghai Coolyah Antique Furniture
2152 WU ZHONG RD.; 86-21/3415-1009

Shopping Centers
Fang Bang Road Indoor Antique Market
NEAR YUYUAN GARDENS; NO PHONE

Plaza 66
1266 NANJING XI RD.

Shanghai Times Square
93 HUAIHAI ZHONG RD.

Three on the Bund
The interior of this Beaux-Arts building, redesigned by Michael Graves, includes an art gallery, Evian spa, swank nightclubs, four restaurants, a Giorgio Armani store, and Han Feng's new shop (third floor).
5 ZHONG SHAN DONG YI RD.; 86-21/6323-3355; www.threeonthebund.com

Xiang Yang Clothing & Gift Market
HUAIHAI RD. AND XIANG YANG RD.; NO PHONE

Xintiandi
The downtown shopping centerhouses restaurants and stores such as Layefe (12 North Block, 181 Lane, Tai Kang Rd.; 86-21/6326-0716) and Simply Life (123 Xingye Rd.; 86-21/6387-5100).

WHAT TO DO
First National Congress of the Communist Party of China
Museum exhibits.
374 HUANG PI NAN RD.; 86-21/5383-2171

Cashbox
The city's best karaoke palace; locations around Shanghai. Reserve a private room (leather banquettes, big-screen TV's) at least a day in advance.
208 CHONGQING NAN RD., FUXING PARK; 86-21/5306-3888
—Jaime Gross

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