Return to main article

WHEN TO GO

Visit Naples in the spring and fall when temperatures are warm, flowers are in bloom, and clear skies make for ideal views of Vesuvius. Avoid the hot summer—August in particular—when many businesses close for vacation.

GETTING THERE

There are easy connections to Naples from many European cities; from mid-May through mid-November, Eurofly (www.eurofly.it) operates direct flights from New York.

WHERE TO STAY

Chiaja Hotel de Charme
Small, friendly, well-priced hotel in a convenient location. 216 Via Chiaia; 39-081/ 415-555; www.hotelchiaia.it; doubles from $174.

Hotel Excelsior
One of the city's most luxurious hotels, on the water. 48 Via Partenope; 39-081/ 764-0111; www.starwood.com; doubles from $430.

Palazzo Alabardieri
Comfortable small hotel near the Piazza dei Martiri. 38 Via Alabardieri; 39-081/415- 278; www.palazzoalabardieri.it; doubles from $234.

WHERE TO EAT

Ciro a Mergellina
For platters of freshly caught fish. 21 Via Mergellina; 39-081/ 681-780; dinner for two $142.

Da Michele
Famous pizza place serving two kinds: with cheese and without.

1/3 Via C. Sersale; 39-081/553- 9204; lunch for two $8.50.

Di Matteo
Sit downstairs to watch the pizzaioli, and try a pizza fritta, stuffed with provola (a ricotta-like smoked cheese) and pork. 94 Via dei Tribunali; 39-081/ 455-262; lunch for two $8.50.

Europeo Mattozzi
One of the city's best (and best-loved) restaurants. 4 Via Campodisola Marchese; 39-081/552-1323; www.europeomattozzi.it; dinner for two $80.

Gelateria Otranto
A family-run store with an astonishing selection of gelato and sorbet. 78 Via Scarlatti; 39-081/558-7498; gelato for two $3.60.

Hosteria Toledo
Small, traditional restaurant; try the sfizietto Toledo (a kind of fritto misto) and the paccheri ai frutti di mare. 78/A Vico Giardinetto a Toledo; 39-081/421-257; dinner for two $60.

La Caffettiera
Excellent drinks and snacks served to a genteel Neapolitan crowd; grab a seat on the outdoor terrace. 30 Piazza dei Martiri; 39-081/ 764-4243; drinks for two $7.50.

Lucilio
Family-owned restaurant for great seafood. 11 Via Lucilio; 39-081/764-6882; dinner for two $72.

L.U.I.S.E.
A perfect example of the Neapolitan tavola calda, a type of lunch counter with hot and cold dishes. Multiple locations, including Via Santa Caterina, at the Piazza dei Martiri; 39-081/417-735; lunch for two $14.

Osteria da Tonino
A favorite local lunch place serving simple food. 47 Via Santa Teresa a Chiaia; 39-081/421-533; lunch for two $28.

Ristorante da Dora
Charming small restaurant known for fish. 30 Via Ferdinando Palasciano; 39-081/680-519; dinner for two $145.

Rosiello
Elegant restaurant with an unbeatable view. 10 Via Santo Strato; 39-081/769-1288; dinner for two $120.

WHERE TO SHOP

Naples is an excellent source for inexpensive, impeccably tailored clothes, especially for men, and alterations are usually free of charge. The best stores are concentrated in the Chiaia district. Whether or not you buy anything, don't miss a stroll down Via San Gregorio Armeno in Spaccanapoli, where shops sell the city's famed Nativities. Note that Naples does not have much of a browsing culture; service in shops tends to be solicitous, sometimes overly so.

Borrelli
Justifiably famous (and expensive) men's wear. 68 Via Filangieri; 39-081/423-8273.

Eddie Monetti
Men's and women's clothes typical of the Neapolitan style. 45 Via dei Mille; 39-081/407-064.

Gay-Odin
The city's best cioccolateria. Multiple locations, including 291 Via Toledo; 39-081/421-867.

Magnifique
Custom-made and ready- to-wear men's shirts and shoes. 37C Via Filangieri; 39-081/421-940.

Marinella
The city's most revered source for ties. 287A Riviera di Chiaia; 39-081/764-4214.

Milord
Men's wear for the hipper Neapolitan. 53 Vico Cavallerizza and Via Filangieri; 39-081/422-982.

Nino di Nicola
Affordably priced and well- made men's suits and shirts. 69 Via Santa Caterina; 39-081/404-349.

Fratelli Tramontano
Beautiful leather goods. 142–143 Via Chiaia; 39-081/668-572.

WHAT TO DO

Basilio Liverino
Fascinating coral museum. 61 Via Montedoro, Torre del Greco; 39-081/881-1225.

Capodimonte Museum
Neoclassical palace housing fine and decorative Dutch, Spanish, and Italian art. 1 Via Miano, Porta Piccola, 39-081/749-9110.

Castel dell'Ovo
The city's imposing landmark on the Santa Lucia waterfront. Via Partenope; 39-081/240-0055.

Certosa-Museo di San Martino
Monastery turned museum, with impressive gardens. 5 Largo San Martino; 39-081/558-5942.

National Archaeological Museum
Home of one of the world's best collections of Greek and Roman antiquities. 19 Piazza Museo; 39-081/440- 166; www.archeona.arti.beniculturali.it.

WHAT TO READ

The Volcano Lover by Susan Sontag. A rich historical romance, based on the lives of Sir William Hamilton, the English ambassador to the court of Naples in the late 1700's, his wife, Emma, and Lord Nelson.

Falling Palace: A Romance of Naples by Dan Hofstadter. A memoir of falling in love with the city.

—G.T. and Nathan Lump

Copyright © 2008, American Express Publishing. All rights reserved.

Visit our other American Express Publishing Web sites:
Food & Wine | T+L GOLF | T+L Family | SkyGuide | Executive Travel

SUBSCRIPTIONS: Manage Your Subscription | International | Billing | Change Your Address or E-mail

Advertise | Contact Us | Site Map | RSS Feeds

View Website Terms and Conditions and Privacy Statement of American Express Publishing Corporation. Users of this site agree to be bound by the terms of the American Express Publishing Corporation Website Terms and Conditions. Copyright © 1997 - 2008 American Express Publishing Corporation. All Rights Reserved.