Melanie Thernstrom Recommends | Travel + Leisure
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Melanie Thernstrom Recommends

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Mashaba Tours
Peter Mashaba, a local guide, offers custom tours of Johannesburg, it's museums, and Soweto township.
27/082-959-5686 or mashabatours@webmail.co.za

South African Airlines
Offers direct flights to Johannesburg from New York, Washington, D.C., and Atlanta.
1-800-722-9675; www.flysaa.com

Although there's not much to take home from Rwanda, Johannesburg is a good place to shop for artisan-made clothing, art, and jewelry, which incorporates European and African design. Fred Eboka's boutique sells high-fashion clothing, while First World specializes in jewelry, including a bracelet with charms representing tiny gold bottle caps, a favorite local craft.

First World Jewellery of Africa
The Firs Shopping Centre
Craddock and Biermann Aves., Rosebank
Tel: 27 11 728 8443

Eboka Design Studio
The Firs Shopping Centre
Craddock and Biermann Aves., Rosebank
Tel: 27 11 447 7006

The achingly lovely retreat known as the Westcliff Hotel provides the perfect complement to Jo'burg's grittiness. Built into a steep, terraced hillside, the property feels like a pretend village best suited for a queen. Inside its walled world, narrow cobblestoned streets wind through gardens connecting clusters of terra-cotta houses. At night, sit on your private terrace, look down on the glowing pool and city lights far beneath, and listen to the faint roar of lions from the zoo at the botanical gardens. To feel like royalty, book the Presidential Penthouse Suite, which has a dining room that can seat 10. And while Johannesburg has lots of great restaurants, I didn't discover any quite as pleasing as those at the Westcliff. My only regret is that I spent too much time sightseeing and not enough time in my room and terrace, and in that pool.

More About The Westcliff

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