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Small electric buses run from the Gianicolo Hill in Trastevere to Via Veneto on the 116 line. Sized for the Centro’s narrow streets, they pass through the Campo, Piazza Colonna, and the Villa Borghese gardens. Buy tickets from a tabacchi—they’re just one euro.
At the Villa Borghese gardens you can rent a four-seater bike, join a pickup soccer game, and slip in an art history lesson at the Galleria Borghese (galleriaborghese.it—make reservations online, by phone, or through your hotel’s concierge).
Your kids will absolutely never be at a loss for something desirable to eat. After they’ve had their fill of pizza, pasta, and gelato, discover arancini (chewy fistfuls of rice, mozzarella, and sometimes minced meat and peas, rolled in breadcrumbs and fried). Get ’em to go at Franchi (200/204 Via Cola di Rienzo), an upscale deli not far from St. Peter’s.
Former hotel concierge Antonio Barbieri’s recently launched outfit, Concierge in Rome (39-06/9727-6353; conciergeinrome.com; con-sultation fees from $138), can organize custom guided tours (by foot, horse and carriage, or golf cart); score tickets for private visits to the Vatican; and lead you on the ultimate shopping odyssey.
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