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Morocco's Makeover

Most visitors to Morocco experience only the teeming souks and medinas of the cities and never get to savor the beauty and exquisite simplicity of the Berber countryside. But things are changing fast thanks to a number of casbah hotels opening in the desert beyond Marrakesh. At these towering fortresses originally built by Berber chieftains, you'll wake to the sound of the muezzins and roosters, sit on a private terrace watching sheep graze along the hillside, and take tea with local families. Once the closely guarded secret of savvy Europeans and the Moroccan upper class, these properties are being discovered by travelers with a sense of adventure from around the world—including Virgin Atlantic mogul Richard Branson, who was so taken with the concept that he opened one of his own.

Kasbah Agafay

A mere 15 minutes beyond the Marrakesh airport the landscape dissolves to a biblical scene of palm-covered brown hills and olive groves, the Atlas Mountains in the distance. In the middle of it all is Kasbah Agafay, a 19th-century fortress that London-based Moroccan designer Abel Damoussi stumbled upon in 1996. "I was overwhelmed by the view, and I had a vision of what the place could be like," he says. The problem was that the casbah was jointly owned by 36 members of the same family, so it took Damoussi a good three years of negotiating before he could buy the crumbling structure and go about restoring it.

Upon arrival, guests are led to a columned salon where Buddha Bar–style music plays softly in the background. They are served mint tea and tiny almond pastries and then guided to their rustic-chic rooms, where ceilings are made of exposed twigs and bathroom sinks are set in wooden enclosures. The exception to all this Moorish minimalism is the over-the-top décor of Agafay's quartet of desert tents. With four-poster beds draped in antique textiles, curtained-off baths, and giant clover-shaped mosaic tubs, these accommodations are popular with honeymooners (but you may wonder whether you're in the Atlas or the Poconos).

"The challenge I set for myself was to use only traditional building techniques and to import nothing," says Damoussi, who employed hundreds of area workers and craftsmen. "If I was coming to invest in Morocco, I didn't see why I should use furniture from Europe and Asia."

Although Agafay is designed for chilling out— by the pool, with an herbal soak in the spa, or at the breezy yoga pavilion—the hotel also offers tennis, hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding, camel treks, and golf. Guests who want to shop or sightsee can use Damoussi's glamorous 15th-century private club in the center of Marrakesh as a base for day trips. Just be sure to make it back in time for dinner in the restaurant, with its seven-foot-tall candelabra, central fountain, and monumental 16th-century wooden doors. Afterward, don't miss drinks on the terrace, watching the night sky, thick with stars.
Route de Guemassai, Marrakesh; 212-44/368-600; www.kasbahagafay.com; doubles from $580.

Ksar Char-Bagh

Set on the edge of the Palmeraie, the exclusive palm-forested neighborhood outside Marrakesh, Ksar Char-Bagh may look like a centuries-old casbah, but it's been around barely three years. "We thought about doing up a palace in the medina, but we fell in love with the Palmeraie," explains Nicole Grandsire-Levillair, who owns the property along with her husband, Patrick. The only problem was that there were no ancient palaces there, so the two decided to create one from scratch.

Inspired by Nicole's research into Middle Eastern and Moorish art at the Institut du Monde Arabe in Paris, and with the help of Moroccan architect Hakim Ben Jaloun as well as some of the best craftsmen in Marrakesh, the Levillairs successfully combined Ottoman interiors with Andalusian courtyards, Moghul arches, and Persian gardens. There's even a little Berber mud hut that doubles as a teahouse and massage area. "Where water crosses, there is life," Nicole says, quoting a Persian poem, to explain the most important element of Char-Bagh's design. From the moat and crisscrossing irrigation canals to the casbah's numerous fountains, pools, and cascades, you're never far from the soothing sight and sound of running water. The star aquatic attraction is the swimming pool, a minimalist oblong of black tadelakt (polished concrete), set on a green lawn.

Char-Bagh's guest rooms, called Harem Suites, are enormous—so big, in fact, that they swallow up rather than show off their handsome furnishings, which include Syrian chairs inlaid with camel bones and sculpted Turkish fireplaces. Bare walls and low lighting further emphasize the emptiness. The sleeping areas (in alcoves behind Moorish arches) are cozier, but still too dim.

Char-Bagh has one of Marrakesh's best chefs in Damien Durand, who trained with Joël Robuchon and Alain Ducasse. Aided by two top-notch Moroccan cooks, he specializes in southern Mediterranean and North African dishes: tagine of lamb and apricots, steamed and grilled fish spiced with herbs grown on Char-Bagh's on-site organic farm. Divine desserts include peach soup with vervain, tartes au citron, and many soufflés. The dining room, where a member of the Moroccan royal family might just be at the next table, provides an appropriate setting, with its white marble floors and high ceilings.
Palmeraie de Marrakesh; 800/735-2478 or 212-44/329-244; www.ksarcharbagh.com; doubles from $680.


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