United Airlines has scheduled jet service into Medford, about an hour's drive east of Takilma. At Out 'n' About Treesort (541-592-2208; www.treehouses.com), doubles start at $80 per night, with a two-night minimum. Activitrees are extra. Jet boats make daily runs up the Rogue River from Gold Beach. We arranged for a pick-up in Agness with Rogue River Mail Boat Trips (800-458-3511; www.mailboat.com). The Treesort has gas grills. Other dining options include La Caverna (541-592-6559), a Cave Junction hole in the wall with honest Mexican food (dinner for three, $25), and the wood-paneled soda fountain of the historic Oregon Caves Chateau (541-592-3400). Dinner at McGrew's (541-596-2202) in O'Brien, a wide spot on the Redwood Highway where a 16-ounce steak dinner (Angus beef, no less) with homemade tomato-cheese-zucchini soup goes for $15.95, microbrews cost only $2, and the deer-rack décor is modulated by such puckish warnings as, "Anyone caught smoking on the premises will be hung by the toenails and pummeled into unconsciousness with an organic carrot."