Day 3: Roxbury to Walton (52 miles)
Rise and shine in bucolic Delaware County, which was settled in the 19th century by Scottish dairy farmers; Guernsey and Jersey cows still dot the hilly landscape. Cassie’s Café (Main St., Roxbury; 607/326-7020; breakfast for two $12) is just around the corner from the Roxbury Motel and serves one of the best breakfasts in town. After getting your fill of strawberry-topped Belgian waffles or orange-cranberry muffins, head 25 minutes south on Route 30. If it’s Saturday, look for the old round barn that houses the Pakatakan Farmers’ Market (Rte. 30, Halcottsville; 845/586-3326) and stock up on cider-washed raw cheeses and fruit spreads such as strawberry rhubarb. Continue south along Route 28, which opens onto hemlock-capped hills dotted by crumbling red barns, and stretch your legs in the village of Andes. Nini Ordoubadi’s modern shop and tea bar, Tay Home (131 Main St., Andes; 845/676-4997; tea for two $6), sells her hand-blended, fragrant oolong, green, black, and herbal teas. Grab a tin of her best-selling Better Than Sex blend—a rich mix of rooibos tea, Belgian dark chocolate, and peppermint. Next, stroll over to Kabinett & Kammer (7 Main St., Andes; 845/676-4242). The curiosity shop is skillfully crammed with quack-medicine collectibles, vintage school maps, and antique natural-history prints. To add a dose of country chic to your wardrobe, look no further than Clementine Vintage Clothing (72 Main St., Andes; 845/676-3888). The secondhand clothing store run by onetime Ralph Lauren exec Misha Mayers stocks everything from trenchcoats to checked hunting shirts.
Onward to Delhi (pronounced DELL-high), 13 miles north, then switch to Route 10 toward Hamden, where the road heads west away from the thickly forested mountains into rolling farmland. Stop in Hamden for a jar of thick Firefly Farms maple syrup and a hunk of sun-dried-tomato-studded meatloaf at the Lucky Dog Farmstore & Café (35796 Rte. 10, Hamden; 607/746-8383; lunch for two $15). Then settle into one of the four spacious, safari-style farm tents at Stony Creek Farmstead (1738 Freer Hollow Rd., Walton; 716/226-6323; tents from $219), equipped with purring wood stoves and kitchens you can fill with bone-in beef rib steaks from the farm’s honesty shop. If you’re so inclined, resident farmers Kate and Dan Marsiglio will put you to work picking vegetables, gathering eggs from heirloom chickens, or milking Sierra, the family’s doting brown-eyed Jersey—with all that activity and fresh air, you’re guaranteed a restful night’s sleep.
Adam H. Graham is a writer based in Brooklyn, New York.