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The park is glorious just about any time of the year. On weekdays it is practically empty.
From Paris, take the RER train (to the Versailles Rive Gauche station) or a taxi—which costs $60$75, but be warned: it is not always easy to get a cab back to Paris.
ASTEL (33-1/39-66-97-66) runs three rental stands in the park. Our favorite is at Grille de la Reine.
Trianon Palace & Spa
Choose a room overlooking the palace if you want secondhand son et lumière. There's a pool and a full spa in the basement. 1 Blvd. de la Reine; 33-1/30-84-50-00; www.starwood.com; doubles from $310.
La Brasserie du Théâtre
An authentic brasserie. 15 Rue des Reservoirs; 33-1/39-50-03-21; lunch for two $70.
La Flotille
A restaurant/café on the Grand Canal. 33-1/39-51-41-58; lunch for two $62.
Les Trois Marches
The Trianon hotel's restaurant has a "Marie- Antoinette" menu on weekdays. Blvd. de la Reine; 33-1/39-50-13-21; lunch for two $225.
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