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Raï Here, Raï Now

Jasper James

Photo: Jasper James

ADDRESS BOOK

Restaurants and Clubs

404 Restaurant Familial 69 Rue des Gravilliers, Third Arr.; 33-1/42-74-57-81; dinner for two $52. An indoor garden right out of Arabian Nights. Reserve at least a week in advance — it's that popular.

Hammam Club 94 Rue d'Amsterdam, Ninth Arr.; 33-1/55-07-80-05. This cabaret doesn't really get going till late at night.

Mansouria 11 Rue Faidherbe, 11th Arr.; 33-1/43-71-00-16; dinner for two $52. In the center of Paris's hip Bastille district. Pick up a cookbook by owner Fatéma Hal.

Chez Omar 47 Rue de Bretagne, Third Arr.; 33-1/42-72-36-26; dinner for two $34. A fashionable Moroccan restaurant in the Marais. You'll probably have to wait, but it's worth it.

Institut du Monde Arabe 1 Rue des Fossés-St.-Bernard, Fifth Arr.; 33-1/40-51-38-38. The restaurant and salon de thé are among the most beautiful rooms in Paris, and open till about 10 p.m. Not a bad way to start an evening.

Music

You can find raï CD's and cassettes in all the large Paris department stores, but walk through the 18th and visit a few of the stores where raï made its Parisian debut, such as Music'In (14 Rue de Chartres; 33-1/42-23-60-71).

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