Guide to Quebec City | Travel + Leisure
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Guide to Quebec City

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WHEN TO GO

Nobody embraces winter with more brio than Canadians, and traveling to Quebec City during the snowy off-peak season has distinct advantages: we found hotels with reasonable rates and slipped easily into coveted 8 p.m. restaurant reservations.

GETTING THERE

Quebec City is 1 1/2 hours by plane from either Boston or Newark on most American carriers. Air Canada flights, linking major U.S. cities through Toronto and Montreal, are more frequent but also tend to be slightly more expensive.

WHERE TO STAY

Fairmont Le Château Frontenac
This turreted landmark dominates all views of the Upper Town; her highly ­trafficked interiors could use some freshening up. 1 Rue des Carrières; 418/692-3861; www.fairmont.com; doubles from $217.

Auberge St.-Antoine
A hotel that’s new and urban yet has a soulful sense of place. 8 Rue St.-Antoine (Lower Town); 418/692-2211; www.saint-antoine.com; doubles from $120.

Hôtel Dominion 1912
A sober elegance suffuses this Lower Town boutique hotel. 126 Rue St.-Pierre; 418/692-2224; www.hoteldominion.com; doubles from $150.

WHERE TO EAT

Aux Petits Délices
The staff at this traiteur in a food hall near the Plains of Abraham will expertly guide you through its extensive selection of cured meats, confits, and raw-milk cheeses. 1191 Ave. Cartier; 418/522-5154.

Les Bossus
Young professionals from the Quartier St.-Roch gather at this busy bistro over rabbit rillettes and beef tartare. 620 Rue St.-Joseph E.; 418/522-5501; dinner for two $40.

Eric Borderon Artisan Boulanger Pâtissier
A bakery-kiosk whose baguettes and pains au chocolat will remind you of your last trip to Paris. 1191 Ave. Cartier; 418/521-5757.

Le Café St.-Malo
Rustic, real French food served in the living room of the Breton grandmother you never had, but wish you did. 75 Rue St.-Paul (Lower Town); 418/692-2004; dinner for two $40.

L’Échaudé
Brasserie classics with contemporary flourishes are the forte of this Lower Town bistro. 73 Rue du Sault-au-Matelot; 418/692-1299; dinner for two $70.

Le Paingrüel
One of the top boulangeries artisanales in Vieux-Québec. 375 Rue St.-Jean; 418/522-7246.

Panache
In a soaring 1822 warehouse with massive cherrywood beams, François Blais offers the ne plus ultra in seasonal Québécois cuisine. Auberge St.-Antoine; 10 Rue St.-Antoine (Lower Town); 418/692-1022; dinner for two $105.

Yuzu Sushi Bar
Fusion sushi served in an over-the-top room with a young, nightclubby air. 438 Rue du Parvis, Quartier St.-Roch; 418/521-7253; dinner for two $52.

WHERE TO GO OUT

L’Astral
After cross-country skiing, warm up over a Fine Séve at this rotating restaurant with unparalleled vistas. 1225 Cours du Général de Montcalm; 418/647-2222.

La Barberie
The bar at this worker-owned-and-operated brewery is packed with friendly locals keen on dispensing advice about touring the region. 310 Rue St.-Roch; 418/522-4373.

Boudoir Lounge
A cavernous live-music lounge that turns intimate when the cover band starts rocking and patrons begin to dance between tables. 441 Rue du Parvis, Quartier St.-Roch; 418/524-2777.

WHERE TO SHOP

Boutique aux Mémoires
Packed to the rafters with Québécois paintings, china, and objets. 105 Rue St.-Paul; 418/692-2180.

De Retour
This Midcentury Modern furniture shop focuses on Danish, American, and Canadian designers. 273 Rue St.-Paul; 418/692-5501.

WHAT TO DO

Musée de la Civilisation à Québec
Moshe Safdie’s angular modern building puts on appealing exhibitions for the short-attention-span set, such as "In Peru with Tintin." 85 Rue Dalhousie; 418/643-2158.

Musée National des Beaux-Arts du Québec
A must-see for its strong representation of Quebec’s most famous contemporary artist, Jean–Paul Riopelle. Parc des Champs de Bataille; 418/643-2150.

Patinoire de la Place d’Youville
Compact skating rink set in a busy square. Place d’Youville; 418/641-6256; free.

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