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Summer in Patagonia (North America’s winter) is the mildest and most popular time to visit, though temperatures rarely go much above 70 degrees and winds are strong.
There are daily flights from Buenos Aires to El Calafate and from Santiago to Puerto Natales. In high season, tickets go quickly, so book well in advance. Some visitors rent cars in Patagonia, but unpaved roads can be a challenge; many hotels provide transfers to and from the nearest airport. For travel overland between Argentina and Chile, there are three border crossings; my transfer, from El Calafate to Puerto Natales, was handled by South Road (54-290/249-2393; www.southroad.com.ar).
Planning a trip can weary even seasoned travelers, especially non-Spanish speakers, so work with a knowledgeable agent; I called on the fantastic Betty Jo Currie of Explorations (800/451-9630; bettyjo@explorationsltd.com). For more agents, see travelandleisure.com/alist.
Breathable waterproof layers, a hat, sunglasses, sturdy hiking boots, and high-SPF sunblock: the hole in the ozone over the South Pole lets in very strong sun. Note: Cell phones do not work in most of the area; if you must stay in touch, rent a satellite phone to take with you.
Eolo
El Calafate, Argentina; 54-114/700-0075; www.eolo.com.ar; doubles from $1,568 for a three-night stay, all-inclusive.
Los Cerros
El Chaltén, Argentina; 54-114/814-3934; www.loscerrosdelchalten.com; doubles from $1,668 for a three-night stay, all-inclusive.
Remota
Puerto Natales, Chile; 56-2/387-1500; www.remota.cl; doubles from $1,980 for a three-night stay, all-inclusive.
Altiplánico Sur
Puerto Natales, Chile; 56-61/412-525; www.altiplanico.cl; doubles from $170.
EL CHALTÉN, ARGENTINA
Asador-Parilla Mi Viejo
A good traditional Patagonian asador (barbecue restaurant).
dinner for two $30.
Estepa Resto & Bar
For soups, pastas, and pizza; in season, be sure to reserve.
54-290/249-3069; dinner for two $25.
PUERTO NATALES, CHILE
Mesita Grande
Great pizzas, pasta, and fresh salads (a rarity in Patagonia).
56-61/411-571; dinner for two $20.
Restaurant El Asador Patagónica
An asador for serious carnivores.
56-61/413-553; dinner for two $25.
In Patagonia by Bruce Chatwin (Penguin Classics, $15).
A classic not only of writing on the region but also of the travel genre—an eccentric, elliptical, entertaining wander.
Copyright © 2009, American Express Publishing. All rights reserved.
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