Le Temps Des Cerises, Fourth Arrondissement
If the adorably modest little bar didn’t tell you you were in a zinc, the conversation would ("L’OM a bien joué hier soir, eh?"). Soccer talk is as central to zinc culture as the crocheted curtains, indestructible Duralex tumblers, and gratinéed pork chops here. The pork is not the most beautiful dish you’ve ever seen, but then, whoever said coarse and crude can’t be delicious?I ask for nothing more of a zinc, except maybe Le Temps des Cerises’ salmon with sorrel, mosaic streetfront, and dormers with window boxes. 31 Rue de la Cerisaie; 33-1/42-72-08-63; lunch for two $42.