Another new habit he's picked up is caviar. "All my life I thought I hated caviar. Then I tried it on the Concorde—and realized I'd just never eaten it," he says, a little sheepishly. "I was completely hooked." He satisfies his habit at Caviar Kaspia, an elegant restaurant that's been serving the delicacy since 1927. He could dine upstairs, done in White Russian décor, but Jacobs prefers to swing by the downstairs store. "I pick up the caviar and take it home for a big pig-out," he says. "It's just so delicious."
Some things in Jacobs's life haven't changed. Still a music fiend with an insatiable appetite, he laps up bands like Luscious Jackson, Veruca Salt, and L7. He shops for CD's at Frédéric Sanchez, a store in the Marais opened last year by the man who creates the sound tracks for Jacobs's fashion shows. Sanchez sells only what he deems to be the coolest sounds of the moment, be it techno, opera, dance, kids' music, or this season's big trend—lounge with an experimental electronic edge. There are about 550 CD's on offer, with 10 new titles every week—a defiantly edited selection that's an utter relief for anyone who finds the average eight-floor music store overwhelming. Another Jacobs shopping stop is Colette, a sort of shrink-to-fit, postmodern department store specializing in the zeitgeist. Only three years old, it's already a Paris institution. "Colette is good for the latest of everything," comments Jacobs. He goes there for bulk buys of underground fashion magazines and books.
He's not really a big clothes shopper ("God knows, I have no reason to buy clothes," he quips). But when necessary, he picks up Martin Margiela designs at Maria Luisa Homme. This small men's-wear boutique is a closely guarded address of the fashion elite, who arrive early in the season to pick their wardrobe from designers such as Ann Demeulemeester, Helmut Lang, Gaultier, Margiela, and—but of course—Marc Jacobs.
And if after a day of walking the Paris streets he's in need of a little American home cooking, Jacobs has two solutions: a hamburger and french fries at Joe Allen (with a steak tartare thrown in for Tiger) or a visit to Grande Épicerie, which Jacobs calls his Paris version of Dean & Deluca. This is where he stocks up on Ocean Spray cranberry juice, peanut butter, and tortilla chips.
But yearning for the States is not something he suffers from. Asked to sum up his feelings about Paris, Marc Jacobs—the born-and-bred New Yorker, the darling of downtown, the arch— cool international designer—turns into a marshmallow. "I feel I'm on a magnificent chessboard and I'm a player being moved around this amazing game," he gushes. "Paris makes me so happy. I just really love it."
Four Seasons Hotel George V 31 Ave. George V; 800/819-5053 or 33-1/49-52-70-00, fax 33-1/49-52-70-10; doubles from $517.
L'Hôtel 13 Rue des Beaux Arts; 33-1/43-25-27-22, fax 33-1/43-25-64-81; doubles from $249.
Hôtel Le Bristol 112 Rue du Faubourg St.-Honoré; 800/223-6800 or 33-1/53-43-43-00, fax 33-1/53-43-43-26; doubles from $526.
Hôtel Lenox 9 Rue de l'Université; 33-1/42-96-10-95, fax 33-1/42-61-52-83; doubles from $97.
Montalembert 3 Rue de Montalembert; 33-1/45-49-68-68, fax 33-1/45-49-69-49; doubles from $249. Le Ritz 15 Place Vendôme; 800/223-6800 or 33-1/43-16-30-30, fax 33-1/43-16-36-68; doubles from $498.
Joe Allen 30 Rue Pierre-Lescot; 33-1/42-36-70-13; dinner for two $66.
Brasserie Lipp 151 Blvd. St.-Germain; 33-1/45-48-53-91; dinner for two $83.
Café Marly Palais du Louvre; 33-1/49-26-06-60; dinner for two $55.
Caviar Kaspia 17 Place de la Madeleine; 33-1/42-65-33-52; dinner for two $134.
Georges Centre Georges Pompidou; 33-1/44-78-47-99; dinner for two $97.
Paul Minchelli 54 Blvd. de La-Tour-Maubourg; 33-1/47-05-89-86; dinner for two $162.
Natacha 17 bis Rue Campagne-Première; 33-1/43-20-79-27; dinner for two $69.
Le Stresa 7 Rue Chambiges; 33-1/47-23-51-62; dinner for two $122.
Barthélemy 51 Rue de Grenelle; 33-1/42-22-82-24.
Colette 213 Rue St.-Honoré; 33-1/55-35-33-90.
Dalloyou 63 Rue de Grenelle; 33-1/45-49-95-30.
Didier Ludot 20—24 Galerie Montpensier; 33-1/42-96-06-56.
Galerie Downtown 33 Rue de Seine; 33-1/46-33-82-41.
Frédéric Sanchez 5 Rue St.-Anastase; 33-1/44-54-89-54.
Grande Épicerie de Paris 38 Rue de Sèvres; 33-1/44-39-81-00.
Maria Luisa Homme 38 Rue du Mont-Thabor; 33-1/42-60-89-83.
When it comes to Paris hotels, Marc Jacobs has test-driven quite a few. He recommends the Ritz as a "great classic," along with the newly refurbished Four Seasons George V. For Rive Gauche charm, the Hôtel Lenox has been a favorite ever since he stayed there with his grandmother. He also likes the Montalembert and Oscar Wilde's old haunt, L'Hôtel ("for all those crazy rooms," says Jacobs). But it's the staunchly stylish Hôtel Le Bristol that is, Jacobs says, "my favorite hotel—anywhere." He loves the funky retro glass elevator, the impeccable room service, and, surprisingly, "their french fries—the best ever!"