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Even in midsummer, the Engadine is not crowded. Swiss International Air Lines (swiss.com) has the most direct U.S.-to-Zurich flights. From Zurich, board a train (sbb.ch) for St. Moritz, or rent a car and drive three hours on winding roads into the Alps.
Engadin.ch covers the valley. Weekly rates start at about $575 for an apartment for four and $1,080 for a house that sleeps six.
Hotel Castell
Zuoz; 41-81/851-5253; www.hotelcastell.ch; two-room family suites from $227.
Gasthaus Krone
Simple rooms, ambitious dinner menu. La Punt; 41-81/854-1269; www.krone-la-punt.ch; rooms for four from $205, breakfast included.
Dorta Restaurant
Order capuns, meat dumplings. Zuoz; 41-81/854-2040; dinner for four $80.
Hanselmann
A St. Moritz landmark, for lunch and pastries. St. Moritz; 41-81/833-3864; hansel www.mann.ch; lunch for four $70.
Rent wheels at Willy Sport, off the bike path outside of Zuoz. 41-81/854-1289; www.willy-sport.ch.
Go by funicular to Muottas Muragl lodge, your base camp—with playground—for easy walks. 41-81/842-8232; www.muottasmuragl.ch.
The enchanting Engadiner Kantorei sings in valley churches. www.engadinerkantorei.ch.
A 2 1/2-hour run on the Bernina Express whisks you from St. Moritz to the palm trees of Tirano, Italy. 41-81/288-6104; www.rhb.ch.
This sanctuary has family nature walks and craft programs. 41-81/856-1282; www.nationalpark.ch.
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