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Wine shipped across the border may be delayed by customs. Ask for Styrofoam shippers so bottles can be safely checked. Or drive across the border; tariffs are minimal. • CedarCreek's Estate Select Chardonnay 2004 ($19) isn't over-oaked, over-extracted, or over-anythinged. • Mission Hill Family Estate's S.L.C. Syrah 2002 ($36) has come of age in its fifth vintage and might be the valley's most polished bottle of red. • Sweet but not unctuous, Nk'Mip Cellar's Qwam Qwmt Riesling Ice Wine 2005 ($53) is a worthy sibling to the renowned bottles of Vincor Canada properties Inniskillin and Jackson-Triggs. • A superior example of this underappreciated grape, Quails' Gate Estate Winery's Limited Release Chenin Blanc 2004 ($17) has high-toned lemon flavors.
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