Aeromexico, American Airlines, Delta, Continental, and Mexicana offer flights from major U.S. cities to Oaxaca, connecting through Mexico City.
Camino Real Hotel 300 Calle Cinco de Mayo; 800/901-2300 or 52-951/501-6100; camino-real-oaxaca.com; doubles from $276.
Casa Oaxaca Hotel Eight airy rooms, most with French doors that open onto a central garden terrace. The inn’s restaurant—for guests only—is one of the city’s best. 407 García Vigíl; 52-951/514-4173; casaoaxaca.com.mx; doubles from $119.
Benito Juárez Market The spot to pick up local produce and blocks of Oaxaca’s famous cheese. Adventurous diners shouldn’t miss the food stalls in the meat market section. Corner of Las Casas and 20 de Noviembre; open daily.
Mercado de la Merced (also known as Democracia) A smaller marketplace off the beaten path. Churros, or sugary donuts, and meat-or cheese-filled empanadas are a must. Corner of Insurgentes and Murguía; open daily.
El Topil Drop by this homey restaurant for slow-roasted pork and house-made corn tortilla quesadillas. 104 Plazuela Labastida; no phone; lunch for two $18.
Central de Abastos Market Rugs, baskets, herbs, fresh fruits, and blooming flowers are all for sale here. Supplies Center on Periférico; open daily (art and crafts on Saturdays only).
Mercado de Artesanías Oaxaca’s top market for handicrafts and local artists’ works. Corner of Zaragoza and J.P. García; open daily.
Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca A vast collection of cultural and archaeological treasures dating from the pre-Hispanic era to the present. Corner of Alcalá and Gurrión; 52-951/516-2991.
Monte Albán This ancient Zapotec regional capital is about five miles west of Oaxaca. The preserved city allows a glimpse into the lives of area natives from 500 B.C. to 800 A.D. Monte Albán; 52-951/516-1215.
Pueblos Mancomunados A cooperative of eight villages located in the forested Sierra Norte region outside of Oaxaca. Reserve accommodations and guide services through their Oaxaca office. 210 M. Bravo; 52-951/514-8271; sierranorte.org.mx
Teotitlán del Valle Over 150 families in this carpet-weaving village earn their living by "painting on wool." Their technique, which uses only natural dyes, dates from the pre-Hispanic era. 17 miles outside Oaxaca on Hwy. 190.
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