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Where to Stay, Eat and Go

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Fairbanks, the state's second-largest city, is the best place in Alaska from which to see the northern lights, and winter is the ideal season. According to the Alaska Travel Industry Association (www.travelalaska.com), there are few direct flights from the continental United States to Fairbanks International Airport. Visitors can fly into Anchorage and then travel the 360-mile distance by plane, train, or automobile.

WHERE TO STAY
Chena Hot Springs Resort
BEST VALUE In the summer, rough it in a trapper cabin or Mongolian-style tent. For a more traditional hotel room, try the Moose Lodge. Or call ahead to see whether the Aurora Ice Hotel has been built for the winter. But even non-guests can take a soak in Chena's healing waters with a day pass. LODGE DOUBLES FROM $135, ICE HOTEL $400, HOT SPRINGS DAY PASS $10 PER PERSON. MILE 56.5, CHENA HOT SPRINGS RD.; 800/478-4681; www.chenahotsprings.com

Fairbanks Princess Riverside Lodge
Just a few minutes from the airport and downtown Fairbanks, on the Chena River. DOUBLES FROM $89. 4477 PIKES LANDING RD.; 907/455-4477; www.princesslodges.com

WHERE TO EAT
Café Alex Wine Bar
Chef-owner Alex Mayberry pairs dishes like macadamia-crusted halibut with coconut-curry sauce and lobster with martini-mashed potatoes. DINNER FOR TWO $30. 310 FIRST AVE., SUITE 100 ; 907/452-2539

The Diner
LUNCH FOR TWO $15. 244 ILLINOIS ST.; 907/451-0613

Lavelle's Bistro
With an eclectic menu of seafood, meat, and pasta entrées, Lavelle's (located in the SpringHill Suites Marriott) is perhaps the most elegant restaurant in town. DINNER FOR TWO $60. 575 FIRST AVE.; 907/450-0555

Pump House Restaurant & Saloon
At this quaint National Historic Site, oysters are flown in fresh from the San Juan Islands on Alaska Airlines, and, in summer, the salmon is delivered directly to the dock by floatplane. DINNER FOR TWO $40. 796 CHENA PUMP RD.; 907/479-8452

WHERE TO SHOP
Big Ray's
507 SECOND AVE.; 907/452-3458

2 Dice Pawn Shop
1402 GILLAM WAY; 907/456-4600

WHAT TO DO
Fairbanks Community Museum
410 CUSHMAN ST.; 907/457-3669

NIGHTLIFE
Midnite Mine
308 WENDELL AVE.; 907/456-5348

Mecca Bar
549 SECOND AVE.; 907/456-6320

—Bridget Moriarity

Copyright © 2009, American Express Publishing. All rights reserved.