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WHERE TO SEE THE DANZÓN
Plaza de Armas (the zocalo) Tuesdays and Thursdays 7-8 p.m., Saturdays 7:30-9 p.m.
Parque Zamora Wednesdays 8-9 p.m., Sundays 6-9 p.m.; Avda. Rayon and Avda. Independencia
Plazuela de la Campana Wednesdays 8-9 p.m.; Callejon Campana, between Calle Serdan and Calle Arista
Rincón de la Trova Technically, this is a place for dancing to son, but couples do the danzón as well. Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays 9 p.m.-3 a.m. ($2.90 per person); 59 Callejon de la Lagunilla; no phone
Instituto Veracruzano de la Cultura Classes in the danzón, as well as many other forms of dance. Centro Cultural Atarazanas callejon Julio S. Montero; 52-229/932-8921; www.ivec.gob.mx
WHERE TO STAY
Holiday Inn Veracruz Centro Histórico A lovely 18th-century colonial building with a pool and large, beautifully furnished rooms. Doubles from $99. 225 Calle Morelos; 52-229/932-4550; www.holidayinn-veracruz.com.mx
Hotel Mocambo The 1930's-era Mocambo, about five miles south of the city center, was one of the first beachfront resorts in Veracruz (bear in mind that Veracruz beaches are not particularly attractive). Charming rooms, gardens, a pool, and a spa. Doubles from $99. 4000 Calzada Adolfo Ruiz Cortines; 52-229/922-0202; www.hotelmocambo.com.mx
WHERE TO EAT
The good restaurants tend to be outside the city, in and around the little town of Boca del Río to the south. In Veracruz, try the cafés tucked under the arches, or portales, and—yes—in the municipal fish market (Calle Landero and Coss, between Arista and Serdan).
Gran Café de la Parroquia Huge and noisy and a Veracruz institution. The ideal spot for a light meal. 34 Avda. Gomez Farias; 52-229/932-2584
Gran Café del Portal Right on the zocalo. Where locals hang out over café con leche. 1187 Avda. Independencia; 52-229/931-2759
Villa Rica Excellent Veracruzano food—wonderful snapper, crab, and shrimp—under a breezy palapa with a view of the gulf. Dinner for two $40. 527 Calzada Mocambo, Playa de Oro Mocambo, Boca del Rio; 52-229/922-2113
Restaurant Isla Paraiso Worth all the effort it takes to find. Twenty minutes south of the city in a fishing village called Mandinga, on a tiny island in the middle of a lagoon (take a cab to Mandinga for about $12, and ask for directions from there). Order a torito (a milk, sugar, and cane alcohol cocktail), and enjoy just-caught grilled fish. Dinner for two $20. Isla Paraiso de Mandinga; no phone
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