Make Like a Local
Published: August 2009
By Francine Maroukian
Eating locally harvested food whenever possible helps the farming economy and the environment. (Come December, those fresh blueberries have to travel by plane from Argentina to get to your breakfast table. Enough said.) To help you choose wisely, T+L found four regional fall standouts—and restaurants featuring them on their menus.
In the wild, this native American fruit grows in a spectrum of reds, from candy-apple to almost-white.
Provenance Northeast and Great Lakes swamps and bogs.
Get it At Arrow’s Restaurant, Ogunquit (Berwick Rd.; 207/361-1100), set in a historic farmhouse with an organic garden.
What to Order Buckwheat crêpe with cranberry mascarpone and foraged chanterelle mushrooms.
Food Dungeness Crab
San Francisco’s most treasured Thanksgiving tradition.
Provenance Northern California to the Aleutians, especially in the Golden Gate area.
Get it At Hayes Street Grill, San Francisco (320 Hayes St.; 415/863-5545), designed as a neo-traditional fish house in Hayes Valley.
What to Order Chilled cracked Dungeness crab with aioli.
Food Neck Pumpkin
This orange, sweet squash, with its signature long, crooked neck and small bulb, is related to the Waltham butternut variety.
Provenance New England and the Mid Atlantic, with an emphasis on Lancaster County, Pennsylvania.
Get it At Bistro 7, Philadelphia (7 North Third St.; 215/931-1560), a BYOB hidden in a renovated storefront in historic Old City.
What to Order Gnocchi with cider-roasted Lancaster County neck pumpkin, toasted walnuts, brown butter, and sage.
When cooked, this fruit—related to the apple and the pear—reduces to a sweet, reddish paste.
Provenance Upstate New York.
Get it At BLT Market, New York City (50 Central Park S.; 212/521-6125), Laurent Tourondel’s latest for "New American" cuisine, in the Ritz-Carlton Central Park.
What to Order Grilled Long Island duck with Hudson Valley foie gras and quince compote.