If you like your reds limited-issue and your whites organic, head to New York, where three wine retailers are focusing on small artisanal producers. Restaurant impresario Drew Nieporent stocks a diverse collection of labels at Crush Wine & Spirits (153 E. 57th St.; 212/980-9463). After viewing the auction-grade bottles in the Cube—a 25- by-25-foot room of glass and steel—stop by the tasting bar to sample the week's six featured selections. When • Gregory and David Moore open the New York City branch of their popular Philadelphia-area shop, Moore Brothers Wine Co. (33 E. 20th St.; 866/986-6673; www.moorebros.com), later this month, they'll keep to their trademark philosophy: wine is a perishable agricultural product. So wear a sweater—the store is kept at 56 degrees. • At Le Dû's Wines (600 Washington St.; 212/924-6999; www.leduwines.com), caviste Jean-Luc Le Dû, formerly sommelier at Daniel, houses some rarities—such as a $2,250 1994 L'Ermita Priorat. But his mostly handcrafted stock also includes great bargains, like the earthy 2003 Châteauneuf-du-Pape by Domaine de Monpertuis for $10.