If upscale Indian food becomes the latest obsession on our shores, it will be thanks to chefs like Suvir Saran. At his New York restaurant Dévi (8 E. 18th St.; 212/691-1300; dinner for two $95), he boldly combines regional flavors from across the subcontinent on one plate. In his new book, Indian Home Cooking (Clarkson Potter, $32.50), simplified recipes forsaag paneer and puff pastry samosas fill the pages: "The food I grew up on was exhausting to make. This is the streamlined version." Here, Saran shares his top snack spots around the globe:
DELHI Karim's (16 Jama Masjid Matya Mahal; 91-11/2326-9880; dinner for two $10). "This hole-in-the-wall in the Old City is my favorite place in the world. The firni (rice flour pudding) is perfection."
SINGAPORE Rang Mahal (Pan Pacific Hotel, 7 Raffles Blvd., Marina Square; 65-6/333-1788; dinner for two $100). "Try the famous Parsi patrani machi—pomfret cooked in banana leaf with coriander-and-coconut chutney."
VANCOUVER Vij's (1480 W. 11th Ave.; 604/736-6664; dinner for two $60). "The ghee-braised short ribs are moist and bursting with hints of cinnamon and chile."
—Mark Bittman
