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T+L Reports: New York Delhi

If upscale Indian food becomes the latest obsession on our shores, it will be thanks to chefs like Suvir Saran. At his New York restaurant Dévi (8 E. 18th St.; 212/691-1300; dinner for two $95 ), he boldly combines regional flavors from across the subcontinent on one plate. In his new book, Indian Home Cooking (Clarkson Potter, $32.50), simplified recipes forsaag paneer and puff pastry samosas fill the pages: "The food I grew up on was exhausting to make. This is the streamlined version." Here, Saran shares his top snack spots around the globe:

DELHI Karim's (16 Jama Masjid Matya Mahal; 91-11/2326-9880; dinner for two $10 ). "This hole-in-the-wall in the Old City is my favorite place in the world. The firni (rice flour pudding) is perfection."

SINGAPORE Rang Mahal (Pan Pacific Hotel, 7 Raffles Blvd., Marina Square; 65-6/333-1788; dinner for two $100 ). "Try the famous Parsi patrani machi—pomfret cooked in banana leaf with coriander-and-coconut chutney."

VANCOUVER Vij's (1480 W. 11th Ave.; 604/736-6664; dinner for two $60 ). "The ghee-braised short ribs are moist and bursting with hints of cinnamon and chile."
—Mark Bittman

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