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My Favorite Place: Francis Ford Coppola

Calle Humberto I in San Telmo, a B.A. neighborhood known for its weekly antiques fair.

Photo: Javier Pierini

“I spent a year and a half in Buenos Aires making my new film Tetro, a family drama. Most of our cast and crew was Argentine, and I had the chance to collaborate with talented artists. There’s a big intellectual tradition in Argentina, of course: the poetry and novels of Borges and Cortázar. At any given time there may be 400 theater events going on, many in private homes and cafés. I found that people in the city really like to have a good time. You’ll see two-year-olds in restaurants at midnight.

The character of Buenos Aires is a unique blend of cultures. The food combines two cuisines: Italian, and a fire-grilled style of meat barbecue called parrilla. And to my mind, Argentinean wines are the great secret of the world. The region is famous for Malbecs, but there’s also a fantastic white varietal called Torrontes. You can’t go wrong with any Argentinean wine. If you taste it, you’ll enjoy it.

When I’m in a place for so long, I like to make myself comfortable, and that’s hard to do in a rented house—so I bought a villa in the heart of a popular neighborhood called Palermo Soho. The whole time I was making the film, I was also turning the house into something wonderful, a sanctuary. By the time I finished, I had not only made a film but had also set down roots in a vibrant, lively neighborhood. I’ve done this before—in Belize and Guatemala. In a funny way, you might say these places are records of my life.”

Coppola’s Tetro will be in theaters on June 11. His house in Buenos Aires is now a two-suite hotel, the Jardin Escondido (From $550).


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