Munich Is Our Magic Kingdom

Christian Kerber

Syndicated columnist Dan Savage leads the way to the land of parks, palaces, and beer gardens with playgrounds

From March 2004

By Dan Savage

Whenever I tell people Munich is our favorite family destination, I get some funny looks. They don't know what they're missing. We first went in 1999, when our son was two, and have been back twice. It's such a beautiful, walkable city. We spend most days in the Englischer Garten, former hunting grounds of the Bavarian kings (their 14th-century pad is at the entry). You can ride bikes there for hours, past beer gardens, oompah bands, lakes with paddleboats, a pagoda. It gets wilder as you go. We rent from Mike's Bike Tours (10 Bräuhausstrasse; 49-89/2554-3987; www.mikesbiketours.com), a combination bike shop, Internet café, and expat center. And we stay at the large, comfy Hotel Platzl (10 Sparkassenstrasse; 49-89/237-030; www.platzl.de; doubles from $195). When we tried a theme-park vacation, I found myself constantly saying "no." But in Munich, there aren't souvenirs and junk food every three steps, so the day is all about "yes"—yes, let's take out a boat; yes, let's go for a swim. Who needs Orlando? Munich is the happiest place on earth.

The information in this story was accurate at the time it was published in March 2004 but we suggest you confirm all details and prices directly with any establishments mentioned. The quality of offerings and services tends to change over time.