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Guide to Moscow

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When to Go

October sees still-mild temperatures but shorter days. The real Russia—buried in snow— is best in February and March. Summers are gorgeous, and in June it stays light until nearly midnight.

Getting There

Aeroflot (aeroflot.ru) flies direct to Moscow's Sheremetyevo-2 from New York and Los Angeles; business class has a five-course dinner including fresh smoked fish and caviar. Delta (delta.com) flies direct from New York and Atlanta to Sheremetyevo-2. A visa is required for entry to Russia. Many hotels offer tourist invitations (required of all visa applicants) for a small fee. For more information, go to waytorussia.net or expresstorussia.com.

Getting Around

Taxi services are beginning to supplant gypsy cabs, but drivers do not speak English. Look in the Moscow Times's classified section (the paper is available free in most hotels) for "English Taxi" ads and arrange through your hotel—make sure to book several hours in advance.

Where to Stay

Ararat Park Hyatt The opulent 216-room hotel (located less than a mile from the Kremlin) is home to three restaurants and a spa. 4 Ul. Neglinnaya; 7-495/783-1234; moscow.park.hyatt.com; doubles from $1,050.

Great Value: Golden Apple Moscow's only boutique hotel, on a picturesque street in the city center, offers high design with a hard edge via industrial-logo carpeting, an acid-rainbow palette, and black zippered curtains. 11 Ul. Malaya Dmitrovka; 7-495/980-7000; goldenapple.ru; doubles from $429.

Hotel Baltschug Kempinski A night at the 105-year-old hotel guarantees all the right amenities—daily shoe shine and a morning newspaper—along with covetable views of Red Square. 1 Ul. Balchug; 7-495/230-5500; kempinski-moscow.com; doubles from $820.

Le Royal Meridien National Right across from Red Square, this 100-year-old hotel has Hermitage-like interiors replete with antiques and oil paintings. 15/1 Ul. Mokhovaya; 7-495/258-7000; national.ru; doubles from $585.

Pokrovka Suite Hotel This upcoming (opening fall 2007) entry from the MaMaison chain has bright, cheerful, sparely furnished rooms, some with sleek kitchenettes. 40 Ul. Pokrovka; 7-495/229-5797; pokrovka-moscow.com; doubles from $600.

Ritz-Carlton Moscow Opened in June, the best new hotel in town has all the requisite Ritz trimmings: veined marble, velvet silks, crisp linens, high technology—plus knockout Kremlin views from its upper floors. 3–5 Ul. Tverskaya; 7-495/225-8888; ritzcarlton.com; doubles from $1,100.

Where to Eat

Café Pushkin The ultimate haute-Russian restaurant, and a Moscow highlight. Open 24 hours, it caters to the local business community and tourists alike in a four-floor faux pre-Revolutionary building. 26A Tverskoi Bul.; 7-495/629-5590; dinner for two $100.

Dymov No. 1 6 Ul. Malaya Dmitrovka; 7-495/699-0770; dymov1.ru; dinner for two $45.

The Most 6/3 Kuznetsky Most; 7-495/660-0706; themost.ru; dinner for two $150.

Nedalny Vostok 15/2 Tverskoi Bul.; 7-495/694-0154; dinner for two $135.

Prichal Km. 2, Ilyinskoe Shosse (off Rublevo-Upenskoe Shosse, near Yukovka); 7-495/504-1269; eng.novikovgroup.ru/restaurants/prichal; dinner for two $100.

Simple Things 32 Ul. Konushkovskaya; 7-495/255-6362; dinner for two $70.

What to See

Art 4 4 Kulynovsky Tupik; 7-495/ 660-1158; art4.ru.

New Tretyakov Gallery Not to be confused with the Tretyakov Gallery, the more interesting New Tretyakov is in the same building as the Central House of Artists. On the top floor is Moscow's must-see collection of early- 20th-century art—Malevich, Goncharova, Mashkov, Lentulov, Chagall, and more. 10 Krymsky Val; 7-495/238-1378.

Pobeda Gallery Vinzavod, 1/6 4th Syromyatnichesky Per.; 7-495/917-4646; pobedagallery.com.

Sandunovskiye Baths 3/7 14 Ul. Neglinnaya; 7-495/625-4631; sanduny.ru; $40 for three hours.

Where to Shop

Cara & Co. Another world-class boutique for avant-garde fashion imported from Japan, New Zealand, and Europe. Find designs by United Bamboo, Nicholas K, and Belgium's Natan Collection and A. F. Vandevorst. Vinzavod, 1/6 4th Syromyatnichesky Per.; 7-495/223-4111; caraandco.com.

Denis Simachev 12/2 Stoleshnikov Per.; 7-495/629-8085; denissimachev.com.

Respublika 10 Ul. 1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya; 7-495/781-3790; respublica.ru.

TsUM 2 Ul. Petrovka; 7-495/933-7300; tsum.ru.

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