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Tangier is liveliest in July and August, but has equally good weather in May, June, September, and October, when crowds are smaller. Avoid the Muslim holy month of Ramadan (September 24 to October 23 this year), when the city pretty much shuts down.
Royal Air Maroc flies from New York to Casablanca, with a short hop to Tangier. Fly direct from London, Madrid, or Paris; take an hour ferry from Spain.
Dar Nour
20 Rue Gourna, Kasbah; 212-62/112-724; www.darnour.com; doubles from $60, including breakfast.
Dar Sultan
49 Rue Touila, Kasbah; 212-39/ 336-061; www.darsultan.com; doubles from $100, including breakfast.
Dar Zuina
Asilah; 212-61/ 243-809; www.darzuina.com; lunch for two (by reservation only) $40; doubles from $180, including breakfast and dinner.
El Minzah Hotel
85 Rue de la Liberté; 212-39/ 935-885; www.elminzah.com; doubles from $205, including breakfast.
Hotel Rif & Spa
152 Ave. Mohammed VI; 212-39/349-305; www.hotelsatlas.com; doubles from $172, including breakfast.
Hôtel Club Le Mirage
Cap Spartel; 212-39/333-332; www.lemirage-tanger.com; doubles from $285; dinner for two $60.
Relais de Paris
Complexe Dawliz, 42 Rue de Hollande; 212-39/331-819; dinner for two $70.
Riad Tanja
Escalier Américain; 212-39/333-538; www.riadtanja.com; doubles from $85, including breakfast; dinner for two $70.
Villa Joséphine
231 Rte. de la Vieille Montagne, Sidi Masmoudi; 212-39/334-538; www.villajosephine-tanger.com; doubles from $250; dinner for two $80.
Tangier American Legation Museum
The restored U.S. diplomatic mission has Tangier paintings by Delacroix and Cecil Beaton; Malcolm Forbes's toy soldiers; and the must-see Paul Bowles Room. 8 Rue America; 212-39/935-317; www.legation.org.
Cinémathèque de Tanger
Grand Socco; 212-39/934-684; www.cinemathequedetanger.com.
Wiggle
Custom tours of Tangier and Northern Morocco. 212-39/937-071; www.wiggle.ma.
Laure Welfling
Stunning caftans, handbags, and one-of-a-kind ceramics. 3 Place de la Kasbah; 212-39/ 932-083.
The Sheltering Sky
By Paul Bowles. The expatriate's definitive North African classic.
The Sacred Night
By Tahar Ben Jelloun. Enchanting tale by Tangier's most acclaimed novelist.
The Dream at the End of the World: Paul Bowles and the Literary Renegades in Tangier By Michelle Green.
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